So...I'm tossing the idea around...

[OnyxWolf]

I've been thinking about picking up a goldwing. Stepfather and father both had them when I was a kid  (mom had a cb) and for long cruises they are very comfortable. Now I found this one and I may be in trouble.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/mcy/5910987346.html
I know the engine is a different creature but I'm just wondering  how much more difficult is it to work on?
I know some of you have some gl experience, any advice would be appreciated.

[TOOLS1]

It's a good thing those are reliable as a rock, because they are a bitch to work on. It looks like that one has Lester wheels on it, they are a much needed upgrade from the comstars on those bikes.
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[OnyxWolf]

I really like the look of this one and it's priced below comparable bikes in the area. I think it has to do with the paint job, most of the wing riders here are in the 60+ bracket and not so much into the theme bikes.

[shinyribs]

That's a whole lot of bike for the money IMO.

I rode one just to move it around a parking lot one day. Holy geez cow balls, that was interesting. I would not want to drop one, or get in to a spot where I had to back it out.

I have often thought that a Ural with a GL engine would be an awesome platform for a bike hauler though. Just put a skid in place of the sidecar and rock on.

Rambling...sorry.

I dig the bike, Onyx.

[Maz]

The main things that cause problems with Goldwings are:-

Carbs - Tiny jets and passages get blocked very easily so a clean fuel system is imperative. You'll know if it's not running on all 4 properly 'cos it'll sound like a bag of spanners at idle!

Timing belts - If you can't prove that they have been changed recently, change them! If it has been sitting a long time without running, the belts will 'set' to the shape they have been sitting in and their life will reduce rapidly. A broken belt on one of these WILL damage valves, pistons, heads etc.

Frame - The mainstand pivot tube can seize in the stand. When you repeatedly use the stand in this situation, it imparts a twisting motion to the cross-tube that supports it, ultimately causing cracks to each end of the tube. The first signs of this are that the stand can swing forward slightly further, resulting in both wheels touching the ground when the bike is on the stand. The ultimate result, if left like this, is that the tube will detach from the frame leaving 600 pounds of Goldwing laying on it's side!
The detachable frame section on the left side of the frame can rot badly. Check on the inside of this section around the left lower motor mount. As you may have guessed from this, I had to completely replace the frame on mine last year-Not a job for the feint-hearted, but gives a damned good opportunity to clean, tidy and paint the motor!

Finally, for a full list of tips and problems, check out Wingovations.com. The site was set up by an Englishman called John Evans and, between himself and Randall Washington (aka Randakk) in the US, there is nothing they don't know about these bikes.

I have a 1975 GL1000 with only 80,000 miles on it (nothing for one of these) and, without John and Randakks help, it wouldn't be the fantastic bike it is today.

Also, take a look at the 'Goldwingdocs forum'. Dedicated to ALL 'wings and an invaluable source of help and info.....rather like this forum is for CB750's (and other Vintage Hondas)!
Maz

[Maz]

I just had another look at the picture - If you DO decide to buy it, get a set of timing belt covers for that motor! Aside from the danger of getting clothing or a valuable part of your anatomy caught in the pulleys or belts, one small rock, or other debris, getting stuck in there will wreck the motor.

Maz

[TOOLS1]

Another thing you want to watch out for is if it has an aftermarket heel and toe shifter on it. These are notorious for causing shift fork and transmission damage.
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[OnyxWolf]

Thanks for the advice and resources everyone.
Maz, I did notice the exposed belt and would most definitely put a cover on it right away. We have a huge bone yard for bikes here where I can get things like that pretty cheap.
As to whether or not I buy it, that will depend on tax return funds.

I will keep you posted.
Thanks again eveyone for all the input.

[motogrady]

Been in the market for one for a good year.

Always wanted to ride cross country and back, coast to coast.
Would love to do it on a Road King or Ultra Glide, but those mothers are cost prohibitive to myself.

Last year, was a beautiful black 84, sat on the side of the road in a guys front lawn, wouldn't budge off 3,500.

Last month, at the local auction, there was a low use Aspencade.
Auctioneer told me a week in advance the guy wanted at least 1,100.
Took 2 k with me, waited all day, it never went up.
Pissed me off, auctioneer said the guy changed his mind and was having 2nd thoughts, and was a kind of weird individual to deal with.  Left a card, haven't heard a thing.

A few guys have warned me about the frame deal, along with the alternator.  The alternator goes, I hear you have to jack the motor half out of the frame, and that some guys actually replace them with ones out of a car.

On the plus side, power galore, and you can run a car tire on the rear, for a lot less coin, and a lot more miles.

[Maz]

OnyxWolf,
we don't have the luxury of boneyards in the UK! Could sure do with some though.

What motogrady stated about the alternators is true, to a point. The connector that joins the three yellow wires from the stator gets dirty/loose and causes arcing which upsets the charging and melts the connector. This will ultimately kill the stator. Most people scrap the connector and solder the three yellows together. The conversion to a car type alternator ("Poorboy" conversion) is popular and well documented, but it does mean modifying the pulley on the end of the crank and cutting a hole in the timing belt covers (if there are any fitted!). The use of a car tyre on the rear ("Darkside" conversion) is also quite popular and, allegedly, is perfectly safe and still provides decent grip and handling. I wouldn't have the balls to try it myself though!

A couple of good points;
Any work on cylinder heads, cams, valves etc is easy, as they are hanging out in the breeze for easy access.
Motor removal is pretty straightforward (although lot's of stuff to take off first)

One item that IS a real bitch is removing the circlip (snap ring?) on the driveshaft at the rear of the motor. This causes A LOT of swearing!

Basically, if you get a good one, regular maintenance will keep it good. Neglect it and you'll be pushing it to one of your boneyards!

Maz