Toolbabes Trike

[TOOLS1]

So I don't have enough projects already, I am going to start on Toolbabes trike, with the help of Shiny the first order of business will be to make hubs for the Servi-car rear end.



The plan is to machine hubs that will go the Servi-car axle that will slip inside a CB 750 front wheel (it will fit into the hub where the wheel bearings went) and then the CB hub, and brake rotor will bolt onto it. Then I plan to lace 15" rims onto the hub, and use VW tires.
Here are some pictures of the Servi-car axle. The axle is tapered, but I am sure Shiny can handle it. However I will need to find someone to broach the keyway into the tapered hub.



I will also need to cut the seal mount out of the brake backing plate, or have Shiny machine a new seal mounting plate from 3/8" aluminum.





I will be putting some parts in the mail to Shiny soon. So that's it for now.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

shang·hai
ˈSHaNGˌhī/
verb
historical
past tense: shanghaied; past participle: shanghaied

    1.
    force (someone) to join a ship lacking a full crew by drugging them or using other underhanded means.

[shinyribs]

What does the spindle look like separated from the rest of the axle?

I want some lead time to brain storm.

[TOOLS1]

Brain storm? Is that anything like flatulence?
What does the hub look like? That's a good question? Especially since I have never seen one. I guess the inside of the hub will look like the outside of the axle, and the outside of the hub will look like the inside of a CB 750 front wheel.
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[shinyribs]

No,I meant that tapered spindle. Does is disassemble from the rest of the rearend? I'm wondering if I can chuck it in the lathe or not.

Of course you are familiar with how a SOHC hub mounts. No tapered spindle,just crush spacers for the bearing on a straight axle. What if we turned the taper on that spindle to a common size )largest available for the amount of material that i spresent) and installed the CB hub that way: Bearings pressed in to the hub, bearings spacers that pinch the inner race from turning? When you tighten the axle nut on the servicar spindle it would lock all the inner races to the spindle,but obviously, allowing the hub to turn freely,just like on a CB's stock front axle.

Clear as mud?

[TOOLS1]

But it's going to be a drive wheel.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

OK,another question...the brake backing plate seal. This is setup like a typical semi-floating rearend? Meaning the axle bearing presses in to the axle tube and the axle just slips through it? So that seal is what holds the gear oil (?) inside the housing?

Are the seals not available? Oh wait...it needs a hub to seal against,doesn't it?

OK,looks like we need to make hubs then.

[shinyribs]

TOOLS1 wrote

But it's going to be a drive wheel.
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Gotcha. Looks like I need to get to work on making that taper attachment now.

There is an attractive blonde headed lady cooking me dinner right now. My head might not be fully in the game at the moment.

[TOOLS1]

This might help. http://www.45restoration.com/Departments/Servi-Car/Rear-End-Assembly.aspx

This rear end does not hold any oil. It has grease zerks at every bearing, so they can be lubed with a grease gun. And Yes, a hub is what we need.
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[TOOLS1]

In that diagram No# 3,4,5,6 and 9-13 are missing on my rear end. However No#6 has really got me scratching? I might order one just to figure out how it goes on, and what it does.
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[shinyribs]

OK, so what does the seal do that was originally in the backing plate? Since it's not an oil seal I am guessing it was just a dust seal to contain brake dust/keep the water out of the brakes.

Does it need to be removed, or can we just turn a small lip on the inner edge of the hub to fit in to that seal?

How late are you up? I'll call you after dinner.

[shinyribs]

That #6 says axle spacer for solid wheels or servicar wheels. I'm thinking it's just something to make up the space created for the difference that must occur differently between the 'solid wheels' and the 'servicar' wheels. I'm sure it's just a straight sleeve. Easily made,nothing to spend money on.

[TOOLS1]

It just keeps dirt/water out of the bearing. However it will need a plate that bolts to the housing to hold it.
Here is a rough drawing of what I am thinking about for the hub.



I am usually up till 1:00-2:00. Just don't call during Grimm.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Alright, I think I'm on the same page as you now.

1- You are not reusing the original brake plate. Ditch that and build new housing end plates to accept a dust seal out of ally.  

- Do you want to just trace the housing end on to a piece of paper and I use that for a template?
- Are you going to use replacement seals or find a common,off-the-shelf seal that has the proper I.D. for your axle shaft?
- 3/8'' plate probably won't be thick enough to hold a seal. I can turn up a ring to house the seal and then weld that to the 3/8'' plate. I would need the old brake plate intact so I can center it though,so scratch the idea of tracing and send the brake plate.haha
- We could leave two ears, or maybe just a large tab, coming off this plate that you could use to hang your calipers off of. I can't make those brackets without being able to measure the offset,of course,but it would leave you something to build off of at least.

2- Adapt CB front hub the tapered axle shaft. DRIVEN wheel,no bearings.

- Are you still thinking ally, or steel? I have pieces of ally big enough to do this already.I have a length of stainless about 4' long,but I think it's only about @.25'' O.D. I know the key is obviously strong enough to do the job. How wide is the key and how tall does it protrude out of the key way? I'm wondering if ally is going to be the best choice for the hub adapters.

- Ally will be easy to machine and I can weld it solid to the hub. Steel would be stronger, but we would have to decide how to keep the adapter from spinning inside the hub. It could have a face on it large enough to reach the rotor mounting holes and attach there. The adapter would still be a press fit,just using the rotor bolts to make sure it never spins inside the CB hub. Would require spacers between the face of the hub adapter and the rotor due to the shape of the hub....unless we shaved that side of the hub flush...hmm...I'll draw some pics and come back.


Am I on track or still in left field? I gotta go flip the burgers now...

[shinyribs]

Rough sketch nowhere near to proportion. The blue areas will be the made pieces.



This is the one we were talking about with the tapered adapter being welded to the CB hub.


Shoot me some hard measurements and I'll be able to get a better idea of how much space is actually available.

-axle O.D.
-distance from axle housing to start of taper
-length of taper
-distance from end of taper to start of threads
-length of threads
-I.D. of axle housing ends (where the seal would fit)
-^^and how deep that bulge goes to see if we can hide the seal on the inside of the axle  plate.

I'll measure the width and I.D. of a front hub here and see how it will all fit together.


I'm seeing two bulges in the axle tube. I'm hoping one bulge is an area for the seal and the bearing goes in the innermost bulge. Like this vvv  Is that right?


I know the seal originally sat in the brake plate and protruded outward of the axle tubes,but I'm hoping there is an empty void in that outermost bulge to hide the seal in.

[TOOLS1]

Here are some more pictures of the axle housing.





TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Looky,looky!

[TOOLS1]

That's pretty cool.
You should have parts Fri.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I thought you might like that. I don't see any reason why we shouldn't be able to broach these ourselves now.

I'm researching building a taper attachment now. I swear I'm never gonna get Hackjob done, but this is much more fun. Building tools.

I've talked to a couple fellas and they seem to think aluminum for the hub will be OK. Have you made up your mind on that yet?

[TOOLS1]

Made up my mind? NEVER!!!!!!
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