** Turn signal Question **

[Ericcb750]

Hey Guys,
  I just began on the re-assembly of my 1978 CB750k project. I'm changing to aftermarket (cyclegear - speed metal) turn signals both front and rear. I'm confused because the signals have two black wires. One has a white stripe and the other is just black. I know that the right side of the original signals has an orange and a green and the left is a blue and green (right?) I just am not sure how to hook up my new signals? I don't know which color the black /white stipe goes to and which one the plain black goes to? If someone has any assitance to offer, I would really appreciate it. I know this may be simple but this is my first one. Thank you all for any help!!! Take it easy.

[trapper]

I do know that on 99% of the Hondas I have worked on, green is the ground. So, I would start with if the lights you bought have maybe a wiring diagram in there to explain which is the ground etc (though I would think the straight black would be).
Hope that helps as a start.

[Ericcb750]

Hey thanks for the help, I'm suprised no diagrams or anything came with the lights. But i'll try that first and go from there. This is my first re-build/honda so i'm learning as I go. I appreciate the help, thanks for taking a minute to reply., Have a good one. I'll post how it goes. Thanks again.

[kandrtech]

I'd bet that your new lights are single filament bulbs.  Your stock front bulbs are dual filament - so that you have running lights and turn signals.  If you aren't sure, you could take off the lens and look at the bulb.

Your two wires are likely ground and signal, and it is likely that the black is ground.  While you have that lens off, it should be easy to see which wire goes where inside the light.

[sgtslag]

Filament bulbs have no polarity -- you cannot wire them backwards/reverse polarity...

Normally, the front lights are dual filament, as mentioned.  That means that the lower wattage fiilament, usually 7 Watts, burns all the time, while the larger, 27 Watt filament only lights up when the signal is active.

If you only have two wires, on each light, then you may not have running lights, only signal lights -- see next paragraph, below.  From a safety perspective, this is not a great idea, as you only have a single headlight to show that you are a M/C, and normally, you would have a headlight, with two orange lights on either side, to indicate a M/C , more clearly.  It IS legal to run without running lights, it just isn't the best idea for safety reasons.

Check the wiring by looking inside the bulb socket:  one, central connector only, indicates a single filament bulb; if you see two contacts, in the center, then it takes a dual filament bulb, and the case of the light is ground/return for the voltages to the battery.

If there is only one connector in the bulb socket, both wires are for the bulb's power, and polarity does not matter; if there are two connectors within the socket, then insert a dual filament bulb (1057?), and apply power to the outside case of the light, and touch the other power wire to each wire, in turn, and you should see each filament light up separately.

To determine which wire, from the bike, is your signal wire, it will only have power when the signal switch is on, flashing power; the running light wire will have steady power as long as the key is turned on.  Cheers!

[Ericcb750]

Thank you guys so much. Seriously, that was a great explanation. Perfect for me as i'm really good with bikes just haven't done much Wiring yet. I totally agree about the dual filament "running" lights though. Maybe I'll have to try and find some dual filament ones. My Harley has them and I really like the fact that there is a headlight and two yellow lights at night. Thanks for the help, I appreicate it. I'll let you know how it goes.

Also, has anyone put new Rear shock bushings in their swingarm? I've added the bronze ones in the actual swingarm but these are the ones that attach to the bottom of the shocks? I had the entire frame /swingarm / etc powdercoated and I removed the old ones (destroyed in the process). I have a new set of Honda NOS ones but It's a pretty tight fit. Wondering if there are any tips on the install ??? Thank you for your help guys. take it easy.

[TOOLS1]

Get some silicone spray "that stuff makes rubber slick as snot on a door knob." and spray it on the the rubber, and the shock, and the rubber should slide right in.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

If I remember correctly, those lower shock bushings are inside a metal sleeve. You can knock them in and out with a hammer, but they're kinda s'posed to be pressed in.

If you have powdercoat built up inside those holes you'll probably have to clean that out first because,like you said, they are tiiiiight!

[Ericcb750]

Alright cool, thanks guys. Yeah you're right they're the ones with the metal sleeve around the outer edge, There is a thick rubber on the inside and then a smaller metal sleeve in the center that the bolt on the bottom of the shock goes through. I cleaned out the tiny bit of powder that was in the holes with my dremel so I'll try pressing them in with a c-clamp or my vise or something. I got the freshly painted motor in the new gloss black frame and the front end on with the tapered bearings. I had the trees powdercoated too so now seeing everything start to come back together, I am like a little kid at christmas, It's coming out better than I imagined. I couldn't be happier for my first re-build and i'm not sure i"ll ever get rid of this one. You guys have all been great with the help/tips on getting this thing fixed/repaired/assembled. I've learned a lot doing this. I'll try and post some pictures "normal size this time" soon. Thanks again and take it easy guys.

[shinyribs]

Yes! Pics please! We love pics.

[Ericcb750]

Hey Guys,
   I'm getting pretty close to finishing the re-assembly. I really appreciate all of your help. I've gotten so much information on this forum and the Simple Machines forum for CB's, it's been a huge help considering this is my first Honda build. I'm hoping the sizing on this comes out okay. For some reason they are usually coming out HUUGEE!!!!    If it works I'll post some more.   

[Ericcb750]

That was the wrong picture, here we go. here's a few....Towards the end (more recently) took a whole lot to get to this point. Anyone wants to see some more just let me know.


.

[shinyribs]

Ah, I missed this update with the pics! Dude, nice! Clubmans are a pile of fun once you finally get the cables sorted. I'm digging the white face gauges,too. Cool.

[Ericcb750]

Hey Shinyrib's thanks man, for some reason I really wanted white gauges and I'm really happy with the way they came out. I just finished the assembly putting on the carbs, airbox, and the side covers yesterday, what a pain in the arse . There really is no room to work there, all the components are stuffed so tight into that frame it's crazy. I do want to see if i can get some tips on the first start up. The only thing left I have to do is to route my cables correctly and fill her up with Oil. I just wanted to see if there is a certain way/procedure for starting a "dry" engine. I did use Engine assembly lube on all the top end components when I rebuilt and I was even thinking of opening up some of the valve adjust covers and pouring a bit of oil up there. Can someone please let me know if there are any other things that can be done to help ensure I get oil in the neccessary spots as quickly as possible? Thank you all again. Take it easy.

[Truck]

Did you get those guages somewhere or did you make those?

[TOOLS1]

When I start a dry engine I will disconnect the ignition wire, and crank the engine over several times to get some oil in the oil pump. Then reconnect the ignition wire, and fire it up.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

...or just flip the kill switch to ''off''.

[Ericcb750]

I actually just got the gauge decals on Ebay, you can buy all different types/colors. I opened up the gauges and very carefully removed the needle with two spoons for equal pressure. I then put on the new white faces and re-assembled. I also added the chrome top rings as well, I couldn't be happier with those too.
  Thanks for the tip on starting the bike, I've just never ran a fresh engine before. I put in all new plugs and new NGK Caps. I did buy new coils, I got them from CB750 supply. I think they might be part's plus but they wouldn't quite fit. Also they had the male connectors for the electrical so I'll have to swap them out for female ones before I install them. The original coils worked fine when I bought the bike though. So I will just disconnect the plug caps from the spark plugs and let it crank for a bit? Thanks for the help guys. I'll post some more pics soon. Take it easy fellas.

[Ericcb750]

[shinyribs]

Showing off with some 4-4 pipes.