I would guess the carbs are not configured properly. Then, did he put pod air filters on it? Pods can be made to work, but they're, quite frankly, a pain in the ass to re-jet for. A
K&N air filter, or better yet, a
UNI, oiled foam filter (much less $$$...) will open up the lungs on the carbs, without the challenges of re-jetting.
I would have the carbs looked at (cleaned), balanced, and a full tune-up. It's all in the Factory Service Manual (FSM), found on the Home page of this site, free to download. If you don't feel up to doing it yourself, then take it to a mechanic you trust.
I'd also recommend adding
SeaFoam to the crankcase (1.5 oz. per quart of oil), run it on the center stand, idling(!), shifting through all five gears, to flush out the transmission, as well as the engine; allow it to run for five (5) minutes, no fan needed, as the engine will only reach around 180 F. This is just warm enough to suspend the crud within the oil, to be captured by the filter. Then change the oil, and the filter.
Add
SeaFoam to the gas tank, after you get everything cleaned, and adjusted: 1 oz. per gallon. This will dissolve varnish deposits within the gas tank, and it will also ensure the entire fuel system is clean. After that, I would change out all of the fluids in it: oil and filter (done); fork fluid (relatively easy, refill with Dexron III+ ATF fluid, much cheaper than Fork Oil); flush, and bleed, the brake lines. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII