Want to see if any one has any tip on storing a motor

[shultz_1978]

I have a motor I want to put in storage and it may be there for awhile. I thought about pulling the plugs and spraying wd40 in the cylinders turning it over by hand and putting the plugs back in. I made a cart for it and I am gone to make a wood crate to close it up. Any input would be good if it helps me later on down the road when and if I need it. Thanks

[TOOLS1]

Don't use WD-40!!!! Just put some heavy weight motor oil (1-2 oz) in each cylinder, and rotate the crank a few tomes. Put the plugs back in, and plug every other hole, and, put fresh oil in it, and it will be good, for years.
TOOLS

[shultz_1978]

Nice thanks TOOLS

[shultz_1978]

How do I put fresh oil in the block? I have no oil tank on it. Can I rig up a makeshift oil supply to the oil return line and let the old oil drain out the other line by turning it over?

[clyde the ape]

I would treat it like a boat engine.  Go to your local marine supply store & get some fogging oil.  If you can run the engine, remove the air filter, & spray the fog oil down the carbs with then engine running.  The engine should start to smoke out the exhaust. One you have a goo smoke out the exhaust shut the engine down.  This will lubricate all the areas internally. If you can start the engine spray down the carbs & manually crank the engine. You will have to replace the plugs when you want to restart it as they will be oil fouled.  Might not be a bad idea to spray down the exterior of everything with a light coat of wd40 then store covered.   Dont forget to either drain the carb bowls, or run treated fuel through the system.

[Lucky 1]

I would spray the entire engine down with WD40.

[Lucky 1]

I do not agree. The oil can turn to varnish and glue the rings to the pistons.
The WD40 will not glue the parts together.

[Jeremy]

I have never had oil turn to varnish. It may though.  Yamaha make a product called ring free you could put in the plug holes and be good for a long time.

[MarkPBG]

Have you tried this?











Just kidding! :)

[shinyribs]

I think Mark is one to something. The pickle jar is probably your best option! HA! I have had bad luck with WD-40. I used it on a roll cage once to keep it from rusting until we were able to paint it. It rusted almost overnight. It is great for breaking things loose,but not as good as a protectant as it may seem. The fogging oil is a great idea but I would most likely just use engine oil like Tools said. I have a few bare v8 blocks laying around now rubbed with oil that are fine. If you use the Lucas oil cling additive it really sticks well. Oooor...I would be happy to store that CLEAN engine for you. It'll be off you mind atta way

Oh,and plug the holes with rags,not tape. If you tape it up airtight you run a chance of condensation building inside the engine. Tape can trap whatever moisture is in there causing issues as well. Rags will keep debris out, but still allow air to flow thru the motor.  Rags paper towels,old shirts...anything that is breathable. Greasy rags tend to not attract mice as much as clean ones do. Of course,you probably dont have mice like i do :)

[TOOLS1]

I forgot this was a dry sump engine. Don't worry about changing the oil. However DO NOT USE WD-40!!! For some reason it will cause metal to rust. If, you talk to any machine shop, they will tell, you not to use WD-40 on any bare metal engine part. Also WD-40 dissipates. This means it will dry, and not leave an oily film. If, you want to cover the engine, use grease.
TOOLS

[rrgunslinger]

Oil it down real good and get one of those bags that you can suck the air out of with your vacuum cleaner.  Put the motor in it and suck all the air out.  That should do it I would think. Or put it in a sealed bag (zip lock?) and put one of the moisture wicking packs in with it.

On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 6:18 PM, TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I forgot this was a dry sump engine. Don't worry about changing the oil. However DO NOT USE WD-40!!! For some reason it will cause metal to rust. If, you talk to any machine shop, they will tell, you not to use WD-40 on any bare metal engine part. Also WD-40 dissipates. This means it will dry, and not leave an oily film. If, you want to cover the engine, use grease.
TOOLS

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[shultz_1978]

LOL a lot of good ideas. I like the pickle jar. I can just fill it with oil.  I think I will use the motor oil that is in My cabnet then close it close it up and leave it rest till I need it. I will use the oily greasy rags in the open hole. Thank to every one for the input.

[Beekeeper]

In my model aircraft engines, I use ATF to store them.  Pull the glow plug and dribble some in, and  push some back in through the crankcase ventlation line.  Give it a couple turns and put it in a plastic bag (unsealed so it can breathe)  I've had motors in storage for over 20 years, put a little fuel in em, turn em over, and the will fire right up.  I can echo the others on not useing WD40.  Causes the motors to rust up pretty quick.

[sgtslag]

Gasoline treatments/stabilizers, only last so long...  SeaFoam, my personal favorite, is only good for 12 months.  After that, the gas turns to greenish varnish -- just cleaned up a set of SeaFoam'ed carbs, in storage for 2-3 years:  green with varnish.  Not sure how long Stabil will keep gasoline good.  Best to drain any gasoline out, to be sure.  Cheers!

[MarkPBG]

Sta-Bil guarantees it will keep fuel usable for 12 months....from their website....

Q: How long will STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer® keep fuel fresh?
A:
STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer will keep fuel fresh for up to 12 months, guaranteed. Depending on the quality, type and
source of the gasoline, as well as storage conditions, doubling the dosage rate of STA-BIL® brand could prolong this storage
time to up to 2 years. However, any gasoline stored for more than 12 months will tend to lose volatility (ignitability),
which could lead to hard starting or no start conditions after this long storage period. NO additive, STA-BIL® brand included,
will prevent volatility loss in fuel. To reduce fuel volatility loss during storage, we recommend filling your tank at least
95% fulll with fresh fuel and STA-BIL® brand, and store in cool conditions away  from direct sunlight if possible.
If you forget to stabilize your fuel prior to storage and do experience problems starting your equipment after storage,
we recommend trying our StartYourEngines!® Fuel System Revitalizer product.

[jeremy]

ive always been amazed at bike that have been stored for years outside in the elements and they still turn over. not that i suggest doing it.

[TOOLS1]

I have a 77 matic that was stored in a carport since 1983. Low miles, and the engine turns over with good compression. Just waiting to have the time to clean the carbs, and it should fire right up. However it does look like it was stored in a carport since 1983.
TOOLS

[shultz_1978]

You guys are right my wifes bike was out side for many years before we got it. Changed the oil, plugs and cleaned the carb and fire it up.

[shinyribs]

jeremy wrote

ive always been amazed at bike that have been stored for years outside in the elements and they still turn over. not that i suggest doing it.

Very true. My bike was parked and never touched for 10 years. Changed the fluids and I took off. No problems.Of course,the tank was sruined,but that's another matter.