turbocharger supercharger

[ksharp]

any one know if they still make kits and what not ?

[ksharp]

ive run out of things to mess with on my bike lol forgot these bikes dont need much after the electrical

[shinyribs]

I remember seeing one on one of that Carpy guys bike he called the Koppa Kafe.You can find it on youtube.Might be able to get the name of the blower off of there for a start.Turbos are ok,but  a supercharger will be more of an instant boost.I say that from drag car experience,could be totally different with bikes.Man,if you pull this off you had better post some pics!!!! Very cool idea!!!

[shinyribs]

Oh,i wasn't thinking. If you go turbo you dont need to buy a kit.The exhaust alone drives it so you just pop it in the tail pipe,then plumb the outlet into your carbs.Using the factory airbox would probably be the easiest method.But you need more fuel pressure than the air pressure that you will be generating.You would have to incorporate an electric fuel pump and boost referenced fuel pressure regulator to supply the correct amount of fuel pressure according to the boost at any given time.The boost ref. fpr's we use on the cars are around $250-300 for a good reliable one.That is STREET DUTY reliable,not just boogie down the 1/8 mile reliable.Now that i think about it,a turbo would be alot easier to setup since they are not application specific.You just need to do some research as to which one will feed,what is it,44 cu. in.??? at 8-1000 rpms. Then you would need a waste gate.There is another $200-300.But you can get "junkyard" turbos off of ebay cheap if you can catch them.As long as you are able to cut and weld some exhaust tubing,you can build one at home no problem.

We turbo'd a 5.0 Mustang once.Bone stock motor with EFI removed and 4bbl added.Way too big of a cam and used a turbo off of a 5.9 Cummins off of a buddies truck that got creamed by an oak tree.It hit him,not the other way around.Took a little fidgeting with the carb to get it right,but once it was,it would flat PUUUULLL!!! Insanely flat tirque curve.Never dyno'd it ,but according to weight of the car and 1/8 mile times we got we figured it was in the 800-850 hp range...easy cheap hp

Of cours Nitrous Oxide is super easy to package and only taxes the motor when called upon.Not nearly as in your face though

[shinyribs]

Oh yeah   hehe   to feed the turbo into the carb,called a bonnett,we welded a bean can(small can ,average size) into the side of a Green Giant green beans&potatoes can(larger size fit the neck of the Holley perfectly)...it was hideous,but ran amazingly well

[Piute]

Giggle juice is easyest ?

[shinyribs]

Shoot yeah!Mash the button and hang on!

[ksharp]

yeah no either way ima need a draw through or blow through, most kits that i have seen will just have a main single carb and then engerize the charged air for all four cylinders or at least at first glace thats what it looks like

[ksharp]

might just rock the juice lol becasue i dont think its going to be very easy to get my hands on a turbo kit honestly

[shinyribs]

Nothing is ever available until SOMEONE builds it.Go for it.I have found that the more daunting a task seems at the beginning,the more rewarding it is when you actually pull it off!!!

[TOOLS1]

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/2575756614.html
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[cityslicker]

GD SHiney, you know engines prety well huh.. thats some interesting stuff right there.

[TOOLS1]

He sure does. He spends hours rubbing on them, for fun.
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[shinyribs]

There is alot more that i do not know,than there is that i do know.But i do know Chevys!...and a lil blue oval

[samir_nayanajaad]

Shiny if you would care to educate me a little here, there is something I don't understand. I get how a blower type super charger works with a carb on a car because the carb is on top and the blower pulls the air down through it.  Now with what you said about the turbo 5.0 wouldn't the carb be pressurized causing the float bowels to get pressurized causing no venturi effect and no fuel?  Is there some sort of carb that is designed to work with boost being "pushed" through it or something? Or do you just override the boost with higher fuel pressure and carbs that can take that?  Maybe a dumb question but I don't even know enough to know what to google to start to figure it out.  If you could maybe point me to some basic articles on boosting that would be cool if you don't want to type it all out.

[Daddyman]

I remember seeing carbs on old hot rods where they where inside a aluminum box that the super charger would blow into.  I also was wondering how that would work on a bike.

[shinyribs]

Samir,they do make specific blow-thru carbs  for turbos and blow-thru superchargers,usually referred to as centrifugal superchargers.They are basically the same as naturally aspirated carbs,but with a few tweaks.They change the boosters to a less sensitive design and have better throttle shaft seals.The main circuit of the carb are basically unchanged except for the air bleeds.You can make the same changes at home to any carb without any special tools.
All carbs work off of pressure differential ,not necessarily vacuum.You are right.You have to overcome the extra air pressure with fuel pressure,to keep the floats from sinking.That is where the boost referenced fuel pressure regulator comes in to play.You typically try to maintain 6-7 psi of fuel pressure under all boost levels.When the boost hits,lets say 10 psi,the boost ref. fpr will bump fuel pressure up to 17 psi. I know it sounds wrong,like it would just come overflowing out of the bowl vent.But remember,atmospheric pressure at sea level on normal weather conditions is 14.7 psi.So if you are typically running around with almost 15 psi of air pressure in your bowl you would think it would do the same.And it doesn't.That is why you lose power in higher elevations.its not so much that the air is "thinner",it is because atmospheric "air pressure" is lower and you lose mother natures supercharger.Cars,bikes,trucks,gas motors,diesils...engines are engines,it affects them all the same.
    Think of it this way.When you are running 17 psi of fuel fressure to a fuel bowl that has 10 psi of air pressure,as far as the carb is concerned,you are still running only 7 psi fuel pressure.Its all in the differential,dont let the pressures themselves fool ya.
    The roots blowers(draw-thru/under carb mounted)that you mentioned SEEM like they would be a breeze to tune since it is in the the conventional/underneath position,but they create such a massive amount of vacuum that it is not simply a bolt-on deal either.Plus they create air pulses that are hard to tune around.That is where you get that rump...rump...rump blower motor lope.It is actually the sound of a poorly tuned motor going lean...falling on its face...gasping for breath and then jerking back to life.It is absolute murder on valve train and anything else depending on constant oil supply at idle which is ...everything.Much easier to tune though and much more repeatable as far as driveability.Plus they just look way cooler than anything in the world and make that sweet screaming sound at about 7 grand.Dang,i wanna build another blower motor now!
  Samir,google blow-thru carburetors.

The carb enclosure that you are talking about Daddyman is a totally different way of doing the same thing.With an enclosure,the entire carb is under the same amount of boost all over(venturis and bowl vents)so the carb uses engine vacuum to create the pressure differential,operating as "normal",but since the entire enclosure is boosted it wil still force feed the supercharged air into the engine.A carb enclosure is an extremely easier way to do the job,as far as carb tuning is concerned.The tough part,and why so many people avoid it now,is leakage.First of all you have to seal all your linkages and fuel lines entering the enclosure,not too hard to do.The real tough part is the throttle shaft bushings.The shaft that the butterflys are mounted on.Once they start leaking it all goes to pot.A typical street driven car will start leaking at the shaft at about 1000-1500 miles.Not real bad,but enough to cause issues when the boost hits.Then you find yourself trying to o-ring your shafts and i havent known anyone to perfect it yet.UNLESS,you use a Predator carb,then the shaft leakage issue is gone,but those carbs suck to tune in the first place...in a major kind of way.Plus they are really only good for WOT
    That is the reason why almosy every successful race car you see with forced induction is EFI.I am old school and hate to admit it,but when it comes to turbos and supers,EFI simply rules the roost.

Make sense?Sure it does.My finger just cramped...ow

[shinyribs]

Ksharp,here is a suitable sized turbo with waste gate included,free shipping and its brand new for $181.It has a 1 1/2" outlet which is awesome ,because it is the same diameter as a round top carb opening! All you need now is $10-20 worth of 1.5" exhaust tubing and you'll be ready to rock(minus the fuel system)!!!...and a coupe silicone elbows,probably.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T15-Turbo-Charger-Motorcycle-ATV-Bike-/190484920092?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c59c9371c

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Silicone-90-degree-Elbow-Hose-38mm-1-5-Blue-Turbo-/110572287582?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19be9f365e

[shinyribs]

I have been doing a little research on your idea,ksharp.It SEEMS to me that the kehein side draft carbs have a reputation for working particulary well under boost. .They say to install a pilot tube,which is a way of boosting the bowl vents. That is what makes  it all work for blow-thru.
   Also,you need to drill vents in the top of your carbs and boost the top of the slides.Otherwise they fly to WOT under boost.
  Seems like that is all you gotta do.Still not sue about the gravity fed fuel though.Still hunting for fuel system info,but common sense tells me that you HAVE to overcome boost pressure with fuel pressure

  Wow,side drafts are so much easier than auto carbs!

Like is said,this is info i found on line,not stuff that i know to work

[shinyribs]

Read thru here ,lots of answers.Note the mention of the single Harley carb.Sounds like a good idea.
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?topic=7438.0