Carb Disassembley

[shinyribs]

Hey Samir,i dont know if have you an air compressor handy,but check this out.
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

[shinyribs]

Hey Samir here is the needle seat i was talking about and the debris screen that slips on the end of it.Kinda tight,but it will slide off

[samir_nayanajaad]

Thanks for the info shinyribs

I finally got to take apart one carb today after work. It all went well I think.  No parts left over after re-assembly and it looks a bit cleaner.  I had one question about an issue I ran across.  Inside the throttle valve(thats what the manual calls it anyway) there is a ton of rust on the internal parts.



I looked in the service manual and it looks like im missing parts or have a totaly different set up on the carbs so it wasn't a lot of help. Im thinking just some pb blaster or wd40 and let it sit for a while. What do you guys say?

[TOOLS1]

I doubt PB Blaster, or WD 40 would do anything on that. I would rig up a soda blaster. I made mine, for about $8.00
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Sorry Samir,i was lucky enough that mine was in good shape in that area.I can't help you there buddy.I never disassembled that part on mine.Time to wing it!

[samir_nayanajaad]

I was mainly thinking PB/WD 40 to get it apart, not to clean it. I think i am just going to replace those parts, that pic doesn't do the rust justice, its bad.  I can rig up a soda blaster, my dad was also did paint for cars long ago and has a big air compressor. Only problem is its 2 hours away.

And shiny, I've been winging it the whole time   sure i looked at a pic or 2 in the manual but mostly just looked and saw what to take apart.

Im going to take it apart again to try to get the rusted parts out because from looking at the manual im supposed to have a large spring in there that I don't. Ill take pics and post them here so I can hopefully find out if I'm missing anything and if there are any good sources for replacements.

[samir_nayanajaad]

Ok so no dice on getting those philips screws to budge. Sprayed some PB at them and letting it soak in.  Now I'm needing some more ideas oh how to break these suckers loose.  I am probably going to rig up a soda blaster but not seeing how that is going to help me get these broke loose.

My next ideas I'm not sure would be so safe for the parts so I defiantly want some input before I do these next 2 things.  How sensitive is the throttle valve to heat?  I have a butane torch lighter that could try to heat the screw with but I don't want to warp any thing.  Next how sensitive to shock/impact would these parts be?  I've been able to use a screw driver put torque on a screw and tap/hit the driver with a hammer to do something like an impact screw driver does to loosen stuck screws before.

These things are moving more to, screw something up I cant fix, area than Id care to go but I can't budge those screws.  

[TOOLS1]

Your carbs should not have a spring in there. These carbs have a fixed position on the throttle arm. The spring is on that, and works all 4 carbs. Also, you can use an impact driver to loosen the screws. If, you mess something up. Let me know. I have some parts carbs.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I know this is gonna sound crazy, and i've never tried it on the carbs before,but if you DO heat the screws melt some candle wax on it while it is still warm.You'll be amazed at how much will actually wick up inside the threads and help to loosen them.Also lubricates things,but since you are dealing with all aluminum there shouldn't be any rust on those parts,may be some on the screw threads since it got flooded.Again,never done this on THESE particular parts,but have removed several 3/8" bolts from cast iron cylinder heads with this trick.

[shinyribs]

Do you have a phillips wrench?You know,a 90 degree bent phillips screwdriver.Works pretty good when you need torque but don't wanna go caveman-beatin' on stuff

[samir_nayanajaad]

Wax huh? I'll try anything I guess. Ill keep you posted.  And tools I hope I don't need any parts from you, as it is ive spent $8 that between a car and a wedding I dont have to spend on this

[samir_nayanajaad]

WOOOHOOO!!! got one carb taken apart!!!!!! It was the less rusted of the 2 I have been working on, carb #3 to be exact. I was going to take a pic of the ton of rust but camera battery is dead.  I may need to replace one of these screws so far, anyone know the thread pitch on these screws? wonder if I can get them in something other than philips to make it easier to take apart next time.

[samir_nayanajaad]

Now the screws in carb #4's throttle valve are getting to the point of rounding out the head.  The screws are so rusted that they are mostly crumbling when i put any torque on them at all.  They are to the point where im just going to keep soaking it in PB blaster for a few days hope it can soak in.

I even tried wax Shinnyribs no luck, had to burn it out to give the PB a chance again.

I also had a general question about cleaning in tight areas. What do you guys use?  I have just been using an old tooth brush on the carbs but need something smaller.  Thought of using those bristly wires used to clean tobacco pipes but throw out what you guys use.

[Piute]

 tell you the truth a dry stick off the ground in back yard soak / dip in lacquer thinner ,don't use in holes (welding tip cleaner if safe to)carb cleaner with straw,
  If I'm in the house  Toothpicks , Q-tips n rubbing alcohol()
   If you have to scrap ,take an old writing pen apart ,smash it whole buch of scrapers that wont gouge your aluminum
   I tell ya been doing a lot of detailing in past...Piute....Be cool N not in a hurry...

[TOOLS1]

I often use the tiny wire wheels on my Dremel. Have, you tried an impact driver on the screws yet. It has always worked, for me.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

You can go to just about any hardware store and replace those screws with ones that have hex allen heads.Sorry about the wax rabbit trailImpact driver is a miraculous tool!

[samir_nayanajaad]

I have put aside those rusty screws for now and have just been letting PB soak in for a while. I have been cleaning on these outside of the carbs a bit and have come across something that works fairly well.

I have some Mothers aluminum and mag polish sitting around that I bought to polish the bolt carrier on my AK47 (looks like I chromed it now freaking sweet looking by the way) I grabbed it and started with a tooth brush tooth picks q-tips and paper towels.  It got the rest of the grit and grime off the outside that a mix of water and The Works didn't.

The carbs don't look polished or anything but that Mothers is gritty enough to cut right down to the aluminum with hardly any scrubbing.  

I think I may have been able to get it clean with just The Works but in my being stupid moment I used too weak of a solution for cleaning.  I was using about a 20 to 1 solution when Shinyribs said 4 to 1,  need to remember what I read next time.

Luckily, if you can call it that, I still have one untouched carb that I'm going to use a 4 to 1 mix on see how that turns out.

[TOOLS1]

It does not matter how clean it is on the outside. It is the inside with all the little passages that matter.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Not a bad idea to proceed with caution,as you did,when using the Works.Did it fizz when you used it?No fizz=too weak.I almost hate to tell people to use the Worx because it is so strong and if you put the wrong thing in there it will ruin it.I wont hurt the main body though.If you have the bowls off you can do the main body at full strength.Dip it for 20-30 seconds at a time probably.It will ruin the finish on the bowls!Glad to hear you're getting some progress.Love to see the bolt on that AK,Zombie Hunter

[samir_nayanajaad]

It matters to me how clean the outside is, I'll get the ports all cleaned out here soon enough.  I don't know when I'll be back to where the bike is and I don't want to be left with nothing to do in the mean time.

Shinny if I understand you correctly all I have to worry about damaging with works is the float bowls and the floats themselves correct? Brass will be fine and i guess aluminum also if I rinse soon after if I'm not missing something.

Also you requested some pics I think, this is what a lot of time sanding up to 3000 girt wet/dry and then using a dremmel with Mothers polish can do.  The metal had some serious dings in it to start with that I couldn't get worked out but it's shiny for sure.



Here is the whole gun, its actually an RPK variant of the AK47 longer heaver barrel different buttstock and it used the 75 round drums, that I have 2 of.