Carb Disassembley

[shinyribs]

Drum fed...mmmm...nice!!!!Thanks for the pics! That oughta scare some zombies

Yes,the works will kill chrome in an instant.

Brass will live forever at  full strength

The carb main bodies will not discolor or get hurt. A 4:1 solution should fizz nicely on the mainbodies,and i just swish mine around in a bucket of clear water to rinse them .Nothing special.

It will not hurt rubber,o-rings,hose or anything like that.But i would not try it on the floats.Never did myself and would not recommend it.

The cadmium plating on the choke turn buckles probably will not last either.But i imagine yours are rusted anyways.

Pretty much safe on any BARE metal,but will remove any and all coatings off of anything


Hope this clarifies my previous ramblings
Here is what mine looked like when i started

Here is my main body after one 30 second dip in 4:1 mix.Still has some varnish that you can see,knocked it off with my fingernail.Notice the fizz?It will creat some heat,dont let it alarm you.To be honest,i would be afraid to use this toilet cleaner anywhere near my toilet

[samir_nayanajaad]

Dang that worked nice, about what mine look like after an hour of cleaning on each one. I think ill use that to clean the engine as well. I just remembered something my dad has that will work perfectly for blasting it, hell it will prolly work as a soda blaster as well.  

All this time talking about soda blasters and how to clean stuff and as I'm typing this out i remember something I've seen my dad use a thousand times that is perfect. Funny how your memory can work like that.

[TOOLS1]

Use "Easy Off" oven cleaner, and a pressure washer on the engine.
TOOLS

[samir_nayanajaad]

My dad tried that on a 318 he was rebuilding and it barely touched any of the oil/grime build up. Bought all of it on the shelf at wal-mart a few times before they started putting out about 3 times as many cans of it.

Ill keep it in mind when I get to that point though maybe they changed the formula.

[TOOLS1]

It has to be the "Easy Off" brand. If it's left on, for more then a few minuets. It will even take the paint off. Be careful not breath the fumes!
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I hate to disagree,but i used the easy off with no results.3 cans.The walmart brand is what worked for me.Maybe the easy off had loosened it upEither way,they are both basically just an aerosol can of lye,so yes,the fumes are a little strong

[TOOLS1]

What!!!!! I have never had "Easy Off" fail me. Wal-mart brand worked? Must be a Virgina Hillbilly thing.
TOOLS

[Piute]

Must be a Virgina Hillbilly thing.

[shinyribs]

Everybody makes fun of a hillbilly...until they get lost in the woods or their car breaks down

And thats The Flyin' Hillbilly around hereLittle action shot...stupid outlaw street classI hate runnin' those skinny rear tiresLimited to 10.5 width

[samir_nayanajaad]

Hate to say it but it looks like the 5.0 beat you off the line there

[shinyribs]

HAHA   Thats Lineberry   he cuts the tree down every time!  My car is actually too fast for the class im running so i have it detuned.It leaves like as weak as a v-twin running on two cylinders  and...that particular "5.0" is asctually 454 cu. in.     That is one big,bad small block ford

[samir_nayanajaad]

Drag racing not so much my thing. I can appreciate the skill needed to build the car and race it but it seems so limited to me.  I prefer F1 much more as pure racing. For your average car guy/gal though I can see how drag racing has such an appeal, though if I ever get/build a racing car ill go to autocross.  

If I dare now, I'm going back on topic for a bit

Got some works and dipped my carbs in them (before I was using lysol brand but works was faster to type out than lysol toilet bowl clener )

All I have to say is


Now thats out of the way I need to be serious for a bit.  How clean do I need the upper bowl area and ports to be?  each carb i let soak for 30 seconds each side then 30 second standing up in a 1/3 works mix, then after rinsing I tuned the carb upside down put 100% works in there let it sit for 30 seconds, rinse and repeat.

Even after all that the upper portion of the bowl, where all the brass screws in, still looks gungy.  I was even taking a brush to it and didn't want to go any more. Thought I was pushing it as it is, also the insides of the bowls themselves are a grungy after a 30 second soak (filling the bowl up not on the outside) with 100% works.  

I decided to do that because the bowls are in rough shape anyway and figured it couldn't make them look worse.  I'll try to get pics up tomorrow of what they look like but for now I got to go to sleep if I can get that stench of works fumes out of my nose...

[TOOLS1]

Those old carbs have a lot of zinc, and are hard to get clean. i use a small wire whee/brush on my dremel. Also soda blasting will clean them pretty good.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

samir_nayanajaad wrote

   

If I dare now, I'm going back on topic for a bit

Got some works and dipped my carbs in them (before I was using lysol brand but works was faster to type out than lysol toilet bowl clener )

Sorry about the rabbit trail


Samir is a fibber

Do what Tools said.Elbow grease is the best solvent ever.We could be millionaires if we figure out how to package it

[TOOLS1]

It comes in 55 gal drums, but is only delivered to job-sites, by GMC trucks (This Old House GMC commercial.)
TOOLS

[samir_nayanajaad]

Ahh don't worry about the rabbits it keeps things going along while im not doing anything with the carbs.

But i take it from the comments these things need to be as close to spotless as I can get them.  I know what I gotta do just need to do it now.  Might be a while before I can do anything more but I think my friend still has that dremmle I used on my AK. If so im going to borrow it and go to town with a wire wheel on these things then maybe go to my dads and rig up a soda blaster for the small areas that cant get to.

Let the rabbit chasing begin again!!

[samir_nayanajaad]

Well I got an impact driver to try to tackle those rusted screws once more, didn't turn out so well.  They can still be used but I don't want to use them due to rust and one of the needles is scared real badly.

Tools you mentioned a while back if I broke something you had some parts carbs around, what would it run me for 4 throttle valves, the throttle rod and connecting hardware? Just the stuff on the bottom in this pic (dont trust myself to be calling all these things by their right name yet so wanna make sure im not asking for the wrong stuff.

[TOOLS1]

Those parts do not look bad in the picture. Some scratches on the slides are common. Did, you get carb kits? New needles, and jets come with the kits.
At the moment I only have the parts, for one carb. I do also have 3 complete carbs off the rack. Check the rest, and let me know. I might be able to find more parts.
TOOLS

[samir_nayanajaad]

No I haven't got rebuild kits yet was waiting to see how they cleaned up first and if I broke something along the way.  I have only been able to get apart one throttle valve fully, on 2 carbs I got one screw on each broke loose then on the last one I got nothing.  Right now all I can replace is one needle can't get the others apart to be able to replace it.

One success,


This is what the other 3 look like for the most part, nothing left for a screwdriver to get a hold of. They crumbled when I put any torque on them at all with a regular screw driver.  Have I mentioned how much I hate philips head screws yet?

[samir_nayanajaad]

I beat the bastered to death but I got another one broke loose. Now Im up to 2 carbs disassembled. My last comment made me think of something, why use philips? took a straight tip out beat the crap out of it until I forged a straight line in the top of the head, got out the impact driver, bingo.



The other one wasnt so lucky, it was rusted so bad that the had twisted off.  After that I was able to pull out the mounting bracket for the throttle arm and beat a straight head into the part of the threaded part sticking up and then impact drive it out.