Vintage and Classic Hondas

Changing chain

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Hoko

Changing chain

I'm going to be taking this 630 chain off my bike and change it over to 530 and an aluminum rear sprocket and steel drive sprocket. I've never messed with changing chains before so would appreciate advice on that. Where do you get those aluminum rear sprockets? Is that Motion Pro chain breaker/riveter a good chain tool?

Thx

78 CB750F3 Super Sport
Austin, TX

TOOLS1

Re: Changing chain

Administrator

Those aluminum sprockets are nice for race bikes, but a total waste of money on a street bike. As for chain breaker, I just use a $7.00 breaker from Harbor Freight, and a clip type master link. I do not like rivet type master links!!!!!!
TOOLS

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1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
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1973 CB 350
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sgtslag

Re: Changing chain

In reply to this post by Hoko

The rivet-type master links require a special rivet tool, to cinch them in place. Last time I checked, around four years ago, this tool was something like $108 + S/H -- a tool you will use once every 20,000 miles? I had my mechanic put my 630 replacement on, with the rivet -- cheaper than my investing in a tool I would have used once (sold my K model in 2012, after putting only 13,000 miles on it over the six years I owned it).

The clip type master links are safe, just be sure to put it on facing the correct direction (easier to remove the chain, by far, for rear end maintenance -- with the rivet type, you will have to fully remove the rear wheel, and the side cover over the front sprocket, as well). Cheers!

1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII

Re-run

Re: Changing chain

Administrator

In reply to this post by Hoko

Don't bother with an aluminum sprocket, it will die a quick death and doesn't really save much weight.
Just do a 17/46 or 47 setup to remain close to stock. I got an RK chain with a master link, still needed a C clamp to get it on!

The HF chain breaker works ok, you just might need to grind the rivet head to ease popping it.
You don't need a rivet tool to put 1 on, you can brace the side of the chain with a block of wood and use a ball peen hammer on the other side to gently mushroom the rivet. I would still do a master though, just make sure it is fully seated and it should be fine.

I think the chain length was 106 links but it has been a few years. You can always shorten a chain though. I bought a 112 link and shortened it.

The ride IS the adventure. The destination is just to get gas!