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just curious if anyone has an extra front brake caliper they'd sell me.
preferably a working one.. i'm having no luck securing one from ebay.. not that they don't have them here and there, but i keep losing the auctions because im not willing to pay an exorbitant amount of money for a non working part that may not be much better than the one i have currently (pads are welded in with rust)..
it's been sitting there filled with wd40 for a few weeks now but still no luck getting that dang pad off of it...
anyway, let me know please.. i need it so i can stop. lol
-Your servant is your master-
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What year do you need it for. I have one lying around.
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Administrator
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Well I know a couple ways you might get the pad out. You can try to hook it back up to your brake line and pump it and the pressure from that works pretty good for popping the piston and pad out. Some people use grease guns and do the same thing.
I don't have any extras and I should get one too.
Hey wv beat me to it! I think for the K bikes, they should all be about the same(I think) pretty sure Mitch has a 78k, wv.
The ride IS the adventure. The destination is just to get gas!
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Sorry, the one I have came from a 73. I have used compressed air before to get them out.
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mk.... i got the stupid pad out...
i tried the compressed air thing, 140 psi is all my compressor is capable of... it's frozen stiff..
but...... with an AIR CHISEL i was able to break the stupid thing free of the rust and get to the guts of it..
btw... the marks on the outer lip were NOT from the chisel. but, just the same, i'm not sure if that is repairable...
once i got the pad out, i realized that out of all the photos i've seen of the piston, nothing looks like this.. i think all of the aftermarket pistons i've seen are solid ... it looks like this is a hollow "bucket" if you will that pushes a flat "coin" into the pad and moves it...
basically when i removed the pad and "coin" this is what was left....
even after i removed the pad, whatever this thing is still will not move with any amount of force..
I think the stupid thing is shot...
wv, as long as the one that you have moves freely and isn't in that bad of shape, i wouldn't mind having it.. i can send you a shipping label... what do you want for it?
the master cylinder i have isn't in any better shape.... actually, i was able to free that up with a lottttttttttttt of time and effort, but it doesn't really pressurize nearly as much as i assume it should. it needs a rebuild at minimum - but- the circlip that holds it all together is broken where someone tried to get it out once upon a time....... so... it's pretty much junk too because it's not removable now.
i don't have any lines for it at all... not even old crusty dried up ones... and i'm not sure which ones to buy.
That's the other question i have....
there's a thing that i see in some of the caliper auctions on ebay that goes somewhere between the master cylinder and the caliper.
a little tube like thing with an inlet and an outlet..
What is it and am i supposed to have one? because i definitely don't. that's one bad thing about working on someone else's project, you really have no idea what it originally had..
-Your servant is your master-
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Administrator
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I can vouch for PB Blaster for removing stuck bolts and stuff. On 2 occasions, regular penetrating oil was left on a part for a few hours, with no luck. 5 minutes after using PB Blaster, I was able to get them apart. I don't know what's different about their formula, but it works.
Sorry about your bad luck so far with your bike, Mitch. This is part of the "drama" with these old machines. Maybe there's an aftermarket kit you can fit to yours?
Luke M
Used to have a 1979 CB750L, sold it as a parts bike, now riding a slightly modified 1984 VT700C. Network/Field Engineer. Central OH, USA, Earth, Sol System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe.
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I haven't looked it over real good. You pay for shipping and it's yours. That way you don't pay for something that doesn't work. It came off my rolling chasis. I am using the one from the donor bike. I am pretty sure the piston moves though. I am going to DelMarVa Bike week tomorrow but I will check it tonight and see if it moves.
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WV, i'll send you a shipping label... i have access to our ups account from anywhere, will u p/m me your address so i can stick it in there? i'll send the label as soon as i see it! do you prefer PDF or JPG..
I definitely appreciate it.. if there's anything i can do let me know.. next time u need a chain or something...
luke..
Peanut butter blaster? ::  Something i've never heard of apparently, but it sounds nice.. i guess i can get it at autozone? i may as well pick some up and try to get the caliper loose.. worse case scenario, i can eventually put dual disks on my beast... either way, i'll consider it a lost cause for now in interest of getting my bike road worthy..
as for problems with the bike, na... i wouldn't consider them problems. it wasn't running when i got it, and the previous owner received it as a ...... box of parts.... so, basically i'm going to get it running and drivable, take it around the block a few times and tear it back down to nuts n bolts and do the build up.. i will say though, it sounds pretty mean!!!
I learned my lesson the hard way on my last project.. i got it looking nice while i was working out bugs on the motor and waiting for parts i needed, and ended up ruining the paint while taking stuff apart and changing things out, and dumping gas all over it... then of course, i disintegrated a piston and had to tear it all back apart and rebuild the motor... there were shards of aluminum throughout my entire motor. so.. all the shiny bits and painted bits got messed up... i gotta do it all over again....
Long story short, this is my 3rd build bike, but my first 4 stroke... It doesn't help that i'm not so familiar with the little things honda has.. i love honda's and always have, and their great / dependable bikes...... but... i have 3 suzuki's in my garage surrounding this honda. and one of them is a 2006 and needs no work..
my other bike builds are 2 strokes... basic motors and can run on lighter fluid if you wanted them to probably. Though their 2 cylinders, 2 carbs, 2 points, 2 coils, to of everything. no reed valves or anything.. basic basic... now i go to a 4 stroker with 4 cylinders, 4 carbs, timing chains / tensioners, tighter nd more precise tolerances, and nothing under the covers look the same as what i'm used to.. it's like the difference between a riding lawnmower and a chevy 350.. except, i think i know more about 350's.
long story short............... learning curve, and lots of research needed..... I'll have a lot of questions, but, that's part of it... i feel confident in my abilities as a weekend mechanic over all... i wouldn't have chosen this as my first project though.
speaking of which, i do have some other questions that i'll post elsewhere..
-Your servant is your master-
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Hey, Mitch. Sent you the address. I am leaving early tomorrow so I won't be able to get it out til Monday morning.
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no problem, i got your email address, but i need a return address for the shipping label, that's how it tells how much the shipping should be etc, no problem though, i can get it to you whenever, and shipping monday is fine, i'm not in a rush, i need to get my chain and sprocket stuff taken care of, and re-jet the points, float the axles, replace exhaust bearings, and whatever else. lol.. so i gotta make it go before i have to make it stop. but i'd like to have it for sure.
You mentioned you need a chain for your chopper...
255114 TSUBAKI HIGH QUALITY SOLID ROLLER “QR” SERIES CHAIN
JTF288-17 JT SPROCKETS FRONT SPROCKETS
JTR284-48 JT SPROCKETS REAR SPROCKETS
That's what i found for my bike.. they may or may not fit your bike (cb750 i think???), but i know for a fact those items are available and it may save you a bit of research if those are what you need.. It's for a 530 conversion on my bike and fits most of the older models too.. the chain itself is probably too short for your project, but that part number will get you to the right page on the website i gave you to find the correct length..
let me know if those work for you and i'll get you a price.
-Your servant is your master-
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Thanks. I have a chain but it is but ugly. I know squat about sprockets though. I want to get a combo to drop the rpms as it is going to be a bar hopper. I am used to v-twins not the high rpm bikes. Any suggestions?
---------[ Received Mail Content ]----------
Subject : Re: Extra caliper anyone?
Date : Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:43:45 -0700 (PDT)
From : "mitchberry [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]>
To : wvhardtail <[hidden email]>
no problem, i got your email address, but i need a return address for the
shipping label, that's how it tells how much the shipping should be etc, no
problem though, i can get it to you whenever, and shipping monday is fine,
i'm not in a rush, i need to get my chain and sprocket stuff taken care of,
and re-jet the points, float the axles, replace exhaust bearings, and
whatever else. lol.. so i gotta make it go before i have to make it stop.
but i'd like to have it for sure.
You mentioned you need a chain for your chopper...
255114 TSUBAKI HIGH QUALITY SOLID ROLLER “QR” SERIES CHAIN
JTF288-17 JT SPROCKETS FRONT SPROCKETS
JTR284-48 JT SPROCKETS REAR SPROCKETS
That's what i found for my bike.. they may or may not fit your bike (cb750 i
think???), but i know for a fact those items are available and it may save
you a bit of research if those are what you need.. It's for a 530 conversion
on my bike and fits most of the older models too.. the chain itself is
probably too short for your project, but that part number will get you to
the right page on the website i gave you to find the correct length..
let me know if those work for you and i'll get you a price.
-----
-Your servant is your master-
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smaller sprocket drops the rpm overall but gives it less take off torque and in theory ups top speed - however, if it's too low, you can only get so much top speed out of it before the motor has to work harder to push the bike forward and you basically flat line... if it's too small, you lose torque and top speed.. You also have to account for your weight and the weight of the bike as well as the power output of the bike, not to mention rear wheel and tire size.. also, if it is too small given those parameters, you will use your clutch up a lot quicker... you have to feather the clutch more and have to rev it higher to get the bike rolling from a stop. of course that's if you choose an overly small sprocket.. going a few teeth down won't be a big deal.. if you go a few teeth down, it will lower your rpm at highway speed.. it will also improve gas mileage too up to a point... at some point if you go to small it will hurt gas mileage because the motor has to work harder at highway speed... lets say the bike was geared OEM to get best gas mileage at 65 and you drop a few teeth.. you're gearing it to get better gas mileage at .. i dunno.. let's say 75 for the sake of arguement... and most people don't cruise at 75.. if you're keeping it at inner city speeds all the time, then i dont know if it would really matter either way for keeping the rpm's low... just shift earlier. not sure it will make enough of a difference though i could be wrong... it all depends upon the teeth.. i think re-run can chime in a little better about this stuff.
i'm not good with ratios personally, but i'm fairly sure the sprockets i'm getting are higher torque than the stock ones judging by what re-run posted in one of the threads i had.. with that said, i ended up with an extra tooth over his suggestion because that's all i could find in a 530 conversion that was available to order.. and i think my sprockets assume that i'm using the 17" tire on back - which i'm not, so i don't know what it will put me at...
i think i'm getting a 17 / 49 if i remember maybe 48.
-Your servant is your master-
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Thanks Mitch. I am a ways from even having it running. I think I have a 17/47 right now. I will have to recount cause that does not sound right. My mechanic says my chain is good but my sprockets could probably stand to be replaced.
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