Fork Seals

[nyraised]

I just noticed I got some leakage from front forks...can someone tell me how to replace seals and how difficult they will be to do...fluid capacity...type..etc  all help is greatly appreciated

[TOOLS1]

Sure. First drain the fork oil, by removing the 10mm bolts on the fork sliders. Remove the front wheel, fender, and break caliper. Take a screw driver, and work the rubber dust seal, or gator off the slider. Just push it up on the tube. Then use a 6mm allen wrench, and remove the allen bolts that are in the bottom of the sliders. Now the sliders will slide right off. There will be either a snap ring, or a wire clip over the fork seal. Remove it. The best way I have found to remove the seal is to heat up the slider where the seal is. I use a heat gun, but any good heat source will work. Even a pan of boiling water. You want them hot to the touch. Then take a screw driver, and pry them out. Clean the slider, and install the new seal. i use a VERY LITTLE silicone gasket sealer as a lubricant in the slider. just a thin layer. Then start the seal in. I then push the seal down in using a large socket that is about the same size as the seal. I place the socket on the work bench, and shove the slider down on it. Now lube the seal with automatic transmission fluid, and reassemble. NOW remove the caps on the top of the forks. Don't worry they will not go flying. Pour in 5.5oz of automatic transmission fluid, and reinstall the caps. Your done Now go ride.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

Tools gave you a pretty good rundown. Make sure you brace the front end up real well so it does not fall. You can get fork oil too but atf is much cheaper. 1 benefit to fork oil is you can get it in different weights.
Also, double check your manual as your amounts may be different and you may have air assisted forks.

[ferroussphinx]

Damn good  job  guys

[LukeM]

I agree.  I think TOOLS has done this a time or two.  I'm glad he's here.

Luke M

[sgtslag]

If you don't mind the look of gators, they will double (at least...) the life of the seals.  I bought a pair for $16 + S/H, for my '79, which did not come with them from the factory.  Make sure you measure the OD of the tubes (both ends) before you order.  They can be secured, at each end, with black zip tie's.  IMO, they look good, and they serve a very good purpose.  Some newer bikes are using a foam wrapping (like the black stuff you find computers packed into, inside their boxes), to protect the sliders from bug impacts.  To each their own, however.

With regards to ATF, Honda used the Chevy ATF, not Ford's Type F.  The reason for ATF, or Fork specific oil, is that they both remain absolutely stable (the viscosity does not change) with temperature.  Fork oil is very highly refined.  That is why it is so expensive.  If you just want to ride on the street, ATF will suffice, and it is cheap.  If you are into high performance, you may want to play with different fork oil viscosities.  For me, ATF works very well.

If you want to modernize your ride, try Progressive Fork Springs, and either 12 Series, or 412 Shocks (only use the Heavy Duty Springs if you ride two-up a lot...  they are very stiff).  They turned my '79 into a ride like a modern bike -- smoother and more comfortable than I ever thought was possible.  For me, it was worth the cost of the parts -- if you hire it done, it will be quite a bit more money.  Changing them out is very easy -- probably one of the easiest tasks to do on these bikes.  Cheers!

[ferroussphinx]

can we get some pics of those gators

[sgtslag]

Probably tonight, sure.

[ferroussphinx]

Thanks buddy  

[Re-run]

+1 on the progressive springs. They are progressively wound and so the spring gets stronger the more it is compressed so your shocks do not suffer from "stiction" where the fork does not compress on small bumps.
A pair of these springs is on my list hopefully later this summer.
You can get a number of shocks for the back. Progressive is good there too but you can also get hagon, works($), ikon, and  think a couple other options.
Stay away from the cheap 80-90 $ shocks you see. They have very stiff springs and ride like crap. Save the money and spend $200 for hagons, the progressives are about the same price.

[sgtslag]

Here are two photo's:

http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n489/SgtSlag/1979%20Honda%20CB750K/

Here is the link to the Gators I purchased, and displayed on my bike:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=58626&store=Main&catId=&productId=p58626&leafCatId=&mmyId=

Cheers!

[ferroussphinx]

o yes thank you   those are cool and i would run those as well if i had a faring  


but thats my preference not  an insult I think they look good on your bike and your rigth they   do help keep out the grime and slime of the road

[TOOLS1]

Cycle-X has replacement gators that do not need to attach to the fork ears. I think they are around $20.
TOOLS

[joshuaC]

I have the air forks on mine(79 Honda CB750k) is it the same procedure to replace the seals?

[TOOLS1]

It pretty much is the same. You might need to do some tugging to get the tubes out of the sliders though. They come out hard on the DOHC forks.
TOOLS

[750K8]

Tools,

I did this yesterday, and noticed these things:

1) The fork caps can pop off as they are under tension (they don't go flying, though I did make one fly when reinstalling). It helps to have another hand around to get the caps back on.

2) I couldn't find a torque setting for the slider bolts (6mm allen), so I torqued them to 40lbs.

3) My fork oil was black and smelly (smelled like engine oil). I let them drain, and then poured in some ATF transmission fluid. I wonder if there was a way to flush them out or pump them dry before filling up with fresh fluid next time?

4) Any ticks/trips for making sure that the caliper is aligned being that you have to remove it? What I mean is the screw with the spring. Do you just install the wheel and spin it and check it by eye to make sure nothing rubs?

[TOOLS1]

This would have been great points to have brought up on the forum. I'm sure others will encounter the same things, and have the same questions.  However here are my thoughts.
Yes the caps can jump on you.
I do not know of any torque setting, for those bolts. I just get them tight.
That ATF/fork oil takes a real beating in those forks. I have had some smell like burnt rearend grease. I try not to drain them in my attached garage. It will make the house smell, for weeks.  To clean the forks out, just pour (low odor) mineral sprites through them, or spray carb cleaner.
I just set the caliper by eye. As long as a sheet of paper will slide through the back side, you are good.

James

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From: 750K8 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]>
To: TOOLS1 <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: Fork Seals

Tools,

I did this yesterday, and noticed these things:

1) The fork caps can pop off as they are under tension (they don't go flying, though I did make one fly when reinstalling). It helps to have another hand around to get the caps back on.

2) I couldn't find a torque setting for the slider bolts (6mm allen), so I torqued them to 40lbs.

3) My fork oil was black and smelly (smelled like engine oil). I let them drain, and then poured in some ATF transmission fluid. I wonder if there was a way to flush them out or pump them dry before filling up with fresh fluid next time?

4) Any ticks/trips for making sure that the caliper is aligned being that you have to remove it? What I mean is the screw with the spring. Do you just install the wheel and spin it and check it by eye to make sure nothing rubs?

---

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NAML

[TOOLS1]

WOW! I can post through my e-mail. Have no idea how I did that.
TOOLS

[750K8]

Yeah, I've been having trouble with this thread too.

I'll trust that 40 lbs is good. That's pretty tight compared to most other torque settings on a CB750.

I wish I had ran carb cleaner or mineral spirits before filling them back up with ATF. I think I'll plan on doing that next time unless you think I should rinse and redo. I can't tell if they were ever drained and refueled before.

Thanks for the tips on the break caliper adjustments. Let me know if I need to be concerned about the above items. Bike has 12,000 miles.

[Beekeeper]

If your talking about the bolt in the base of the slider, I believe the torque value is 6 to 9 ft lbs.  Page 13-23  in the  FSM, which also recommends a thread locker.  When I changed my seals, it looked more like clear silicone or rtv.  I used a thread locker when I reassembled them.  Later when I installed Progressive Springs, I had a heck of a fight get them broke loose.