Fork stiction

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Fork stiction

alehman
Hi everyone,

I just replaced my front fork springs with progressive springs, replaced the seals, and added 5.2 oz of fresh Dexron III ATF into each fork. However, when I compress the front suspension, it doesn't seem to want to return allll the way to the top until I put it over on its kickstand (essentially removing the bike's own weight from the forks). At first I thought that I had attached the fender in a way that was causing my fork legs to bind against the tubes, but this all still happened even with the fender loosened. What could be causing this? I was pretty meticulous when measuring out the ATF, but could it be possible that I don't have enough in there?
1979 CB750K
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Re: Fork stiction

TOOLS1
Administrator
That is just the weight of the bike being absorbed by the spring. I'll bet the fork will go down even more if you sit on the bike. If it goes down too far, and bottoms out, you might want to give Jenny Craig a call, other then that don't worry about it. It's normal.
TOOLS
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1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
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Re: Fork stiction

alehman
Thanks TOOLS!
1979 CB750K
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Re: Fork stiction

robs750
In reply to this post by alehman
The springs are what extends the forks.
The replacements could be shorter or softer than the stock.Check as Tools said.
Be sure to see how the front end responds to hard braking.
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Re: Fork stiction

sgtslag
In reply to this post by alehman
It's been years since I did that to my now-sold bike, but the Progressive Springs displace a different amount of fluid -- check their site for how much fluid to add for your bike's forks, as it is different than what the FSM specifies.  Secondly, be sure to loosen the triple tree, to ensure that the tubes are not twisted, or binding.  If you get them twisted, even slightly, then tighten the bolts on the triple tree, they will maintain that twist, causing binding/stiction.  Check it to be sure:  loosen the nuts on the triple tree; make sure to measure the heights on the tops of the tubes, to ensure they are at the same height; make sure they are straight, and not twisted/binding, within the tree, then tighten them down to the correct torque.

I agree with what the others have said, but it is actually quite easy to twist the tubes slightly, if you are not careful.  The steering is, of course, critical, so the small investment in time, checking things carefully, pays off with very big dividends in riding safety, and comfort.  Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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Re: Fork stiction

shinyribs
Administrator
Just a thought,but most progressive style springs come with spacers for the springs. If you made sure to put those in then I'd say you're fine. If not,that may be the issue.


Like Sarge said,sometimes they use lees fluid,too. It's because the tighter wound portion of the spring displaces area where the oil would normally reside. But at 5.2 oz you should be fine. Stock is 7 oz,right?