Hello New rider here need all the help in the world!!

[sgtslag]

With regards to the fork springs flying out, they are under some pressure.  This is a very good reason why I recommend jacking up the front end, to release as much pressure on the springs, as possible.  The fork caps will pop out on you, when you turn the last thread out.  They will require modest pressure to put the caps back in, as well, but with the front end jacked up, this will be fairly easy to accomplish.  When replacing the fork caps, be sure to turn the fork caps backwards, until the threads 'pop', then turn correctly, to tighten; doing this procedure will ensure that you do not cross thread them.  With the bike jacked up, pumping the front forks is quite easy, and effective at circulating the hydraulic fluid in them, as well as flushing out air within the hydraulics system.  After the fluid is circulated, I just put the springs back in, and then replace the fork caps.

With regards to jacking up the front end, I use an old scissors jack I was given by my Father.  I believe he just wanted to be rid of it, but it has proven to be extremely useful working on my bikes!  A scissors jack gives you very granular control over lifting your bike.  I would recommend them to any DIY bike owner, but that is just me.  

There are the fork seals, which will, eventually, leak, leaving oil streaks up/down the forks.  They can be replaced, by you -- it's in the FSM.  If you need to replace them, post and ask, as there are some tricks to make it easier.  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

ok  thats reassuring!!! so should i  pop the caps or just pull the plugs and flush the oil?  or do ineed to pop the caps to pour in the new atf?

[TOOLS1]

You can remove the 10mm bolt on the lower fork leg, and pump the forks to remove the ATF. Then you remove the cap on the top of the leg to install the new ATF.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Left leg only?  I am sorry to be a pest    thank you guys so much for all the help      i was able to hit the computer real quick just now but i gotta get back to work   hope to get these forks straightened out this evening

[shinyribs]

OH  i was reading the manual last night and noticed they call for 10w-30 oil    they dont specify "motor" oil   but that is the only oil i know of that is listed that way    but you guys recommend dexron lll atf     right?

[sgtslag]

If you use a jack, or a jack stand, to support the bike, you can do both fork tubes simultaneously.  Without support, you will have to do them one at a time, as there will be nothing holding up the front end!  

Flushing out the old ATF is easier with the top open, so air can flow in to replace the fluid as it escapes out the hole at the bottom (Clymer recommends letting them drain for 20 minutes to ensure all of the old fluid is drained out -- cover your disc rotor with aluminum foil to prevent ATF contamination, which will prevent the brake from grabbing!).  I find it pretty fast, and easy, to do them at the same time, but YMMV.  With the springs out, I just measure, and pour in the new ATF in each tube, pump them to get the air out, then put the springs back in, cap them, and done.

It is one of the easiest maintenance jobs on the bike.  Nothing to worry about.  You will see how easy this task is, and it will save you a considerable amount of cash over having it done in a shop.  Besides, you will be able to do it often (one bottle of Dexron III/IV ATF is only around $3-$4 per quart, and it will do around 3+ changes?), to maintain your quality of ride, as well as keeping the seals in good condition by keeping them in clean, fresh fluid (should be done once per year, or two).  Cheers!

[sgtslag]

Motor oil is not nearly stable enough for forks:  the oil needs to maintain its viscosity under all temperatures, with very little deviation.  The "made for forks" oil is uber-expensive because it maintains its viscosity v-e-r-y accurately.  Automatic Transmission Fluid, in this case, Dexron III/IV, is what Honda used for many years.  It meets the viscosity stability criteria very well, for very little cash.  Only on more modern bikes will the fork oil serve better -- that is, be worth the money.  Unless, of course, you are a suspension expert -- supposedly, the fork oil performs better, but I can't tell the difference.  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

ok  cool    thanks sarge    i got a bike jack from when i used to fool with KTM's  so getting the wheels off the ground wont be a problem    like a said  looking forward to tooling on this thing tonight!!!   im 31 years old and this bike has me feeling like im 14 and trying to get my first car ready to drive!!!

[shinyribs]

Well the bike jack wont work with the pipes criss-crossing underneath( its gorgeous) so i used a bottle jack  and noticed the bikes have a removable oil pan(?)    cool didnt expect that         anyway ,flushed the forks tonight      i was relieved to find that the fluid in there was not at all dirty    a little dark but no grime or debris seemed to flow out at all     it did seem to get a little darker when i started stroking the forks but for the most part seemed to be ok      i noticed the manual calls for 7-7.3 ounces of fluid     can you overfill/underfill  the forks? if so what happens?      i tried to measure as carefully as possible using the scale on the side of the atf bottle so.... should be ok    THANKS AGAIN SGTSLAG AND TOOLS FOR ALL YOUR HELP! Tomorrow hope to change engine oil and filter and begin getting the carbs ready.   My Dad was telling me that on one of his bikes he swapped the factory carbs for a single Mikuni and he loved it!!  Any chance of doing that nowadays? What are ya'lls opinion on that?   Anything i should lookout for when disassembling the carbs?   Im gonna go study the manual now...do my homework  haha    THANKS AGAIN GUYS     COULD NOT DO IT WITHOUT YOUR GUIDANCE    1,375,825% APPRECIATIVE!!

[TOOLS1]

I have been dieing to do a single carb on a CB 750. I would love to know more about how your Dad did it. I found this video on you tube awhile back. Check it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ae2HO_I0aVI
Also the Honda service manual says 5.5 oz ATF.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

hey tools   i' rechecked what i was reading when i came up with 7 oz    its on page 121 of the manual  page 118 according to adobe(if that makes any sense)   so.... should i let out a couple ounces?   as far as the single mikuni,he said it was a manifold/kit he bought made just for it    picked it up at the shop where he bought the bike

[TOOLS1]

I would try to remove it, or just drain, and refill.
Does he know who made the manifold?
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

i will ask him tomorrow at work     see what i can find out

[shinyribs]

Hey guys  i changed the oil and filter tonight    dang it! forgot to clean out the breather accumulator,just thought of it     anyway,i didnt refer to the manual and tried to pour in the full 3.7 qts    guess i need to redo that   but when i was cleaning out the carbs i found the jets were marked 105   i thought the f models were supposed to have 120's?    also the #3 carb jet had fallen out and was lying in the bowl   hopefully that would explain the loss of power the previous owner talked about  he also said that oi never would run above 90 mph and on top end it would pop   i know on my race car top end pop is usually a lean condition      also i was wanting to run a compression test but my automotive kit does not have a hose that will go in these heads  any suggestions as to locating one? what psi should i look for and can it be accomplished with the kick starter?  Thanks!!

[shinyribs]

oh yeah   i picked up a set of needles at the bike shop today      he looked them up for a cb750f super sport and they had rubber (viton?) tips and were of the wire hanger type     mine ended up being solid metal tipped and had no hanger so.... am i mismatched here on my carbs or what?  i am clueless and need direction!! Thanks!

[TOOLS1]

The rubber tipped ones work better. just be sure to clean the seats real good. use an old needle, and some toothpaste. put a little toothpaste on the old needle, and turn it on the seat. Just like lapping valves.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

My old needles have a spring loaded center pin if that makes any sense or clarifies anything

[TOOLS1]

Some have the spring loaded needles. This was to protect the needles, and seats from damage if the float bowels over filled. The rubber tips do the same thing.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I went back to the bike shop today(sneaking away from work...shhhh) the guy there said that his book calls for a f model bike to have a 140 jet in it     that sounds big to me    i dont know     he was also convinced that i have the wrong carburetors on here , that they are k models       from what i can tell in the manual(page 219), its the right carbs according to the linkage but its supposed to have 105 main jets   120 air jets and 40 slow jets        i know my slow jets are 40 so thats cool     i dont know which is air jet and which is main jet    im assuming the main jet is the one that screws in the brass threaded adapter that the needle rides in that leads into the venturi      that jet on mine is a 105( hard to read,maybe o 106 or 108??)  if so then my sizes are correct per the manual,wrong according his       i still dont know what the air jet is     the brass insert in the vent tubes???

[TOOLS1]

Your right on which is the main jet. The air is the screw that is in front of the float bowel. The "K", and "F" use the same carbs. Yours might have been rebuilt, and the jets replaced. 140 does sound big. Most have 105-120.
TOOLS