Just out of curiosity....

[slownugly007]

I was fiddling around with my new master cylinder and trying to figure out my new hose dimensions, when I started thinking...can you use a double banjo bolt on an aftermarket and large enough master cylinder to run a single disc front and single disc rear brake setup and eliminate the rear pedal/mc assembly? I mean in all reality the mc reservoir just has to be above the caliper...right? I know on cars all four brakes run off one mc and sometimes utilize a flow regulator to adjust the braking power to be more powerful on the front, but wasnt sure if it would matter on a bike? Would it be dangerous if front and rear brakes were simultaneous? Again, just wanted to get others thoughts on it

[cdaiscool]

I would want them separate, so if you get a hole in one you don't lose both brakes.

[shultz_1978]

Just my thoughts but I would have to say that would but playing with danger. I tend to use my back and front brake in different accions. I find using the back brake a lone at very slow speeds helps to keep the bike balanced and their are time I just use the front brake on accasion. It would be hard to do that if they were hooked in line with one master. Also if that master would fail you have no back up. Just a thought.

[shinyribs]

I had a polaris 4 wheeler with combined brakes.I loved them. There was a proportioning valve that made it all work. Just can get those aftermarket and install on inline on the rear line and adjust it til its right. So you can work that part out.Without it you'd be sliding rear tire all over the place.

The stock M/C won't move enough fluid to support both calipers.

If you can find a M/C that'll put out the needed amount of fluid, and put an adjustable proportioning valve in, I dont see any reason why it would not work. Lever effort might be a bit much,but if the M/C is designed to push a bunch of fluid it is probably leveraged for the job.

If you make it work I'k like to buy one...but it would make burnouts difficult

10 points to you for thinking outside the box...the box sux!

[sgtslag]

Typically, they are applied at different rates.  On the newer Gold Wings, they are interlinked with one front disk and the rear, being tied to the rear brake pedal, while the front brake lever controls the second, remaining front disk brake, alone.

Shultz_1978 is correct:  by slipping the wet-only clutch, and dragging the rear-only brake, you can stabilize your bike (any bike, large, or small...) at slow speeds, allowing you to learn how to pull off some pretty tight turns, and other maneuvers, all at very slow speeds.  It is quite amazing what you can achieve with this technique, and practice:  Ride Like a Pro DVD Vol. 5 - Jerry "Motorman" Palladino (link).  I have this DVD, and I highly recommend it for any rider, on any bike, large, or small.  

For these reasons, as well as the greater control separate brakes give the rider, I would never want a bike with a 'linked braking system'.  Wing riders can have them -- on such heavy bikes, the clutch-slipping/rear brake dragging technique is an absolute must.  I've used this technique to great effect, riding two-up, on both of my bikes, pulling a U-turn on a street, without putting my feet down, without losing control of the bike, no stopping, no duck-walking.  My wife was impressed, and so were my buddy, and his wife, who witnessed me pull it off.  Cheers!

[sgtslag]

Another reason to have them separately controlled, is it allows the rider to lead with the rear brake, in every braking situation.  By applying a small amount of rear brake, first, before applying the front brake, the rider can reduce, or even eliminate, the front fork dive when applying brakes.  Give it a try:  apply a small amount of rear brake, first, then squeeze the front brake and apply stronger rear braking, as you approach a Stop Sign.  Pay close attention to the front fork dive, or lack thereof, as you try this technique.

Since I discovered this method (a variation of Jerry Paladino's rear brake dragging/clutch slipping techniques for low-speed maneuvering), I have learned to use it every time, in every situation, to gain much greater stability, and control of the bike.  It all but eliminates front fork dive in nearly every braking situation.  Cheers!  

[shinyribs]

Everything Sarge said is true,as always.   Cda has a good point about having a back up if it fails,too

That being said...I still wanna see ya do it!

[slownugly007]

hahahaha Id like to see it done myself just to test it out and see how it works, but with "that being said".....IM SCARED!!  I was just wondering if it was possible or why its not done from the factory, but I guess theres probably a specific reason that bikes have separate brakes. So I doubt I will reinvent the wheel especially on the brakes...I might need those one day!?  

But I will however reinvent the wheel on my...well uh my...wheels?? I was thinking Shiny, Ive got plenty of duct tape, wire ties and jb weld so we can definitely get those wheels to fit!

[shinyribs]

Sounds like a plan. Hey,duct tape fixed my air compressor

[cdaiscool]

I saw a full-size van today with duct tape holding the doors closed. They had something sticking out the back, and couldn't close the doors. So instead of using rope, they used white duct tape.

If I wasn't in a hurry I would have snapped a shot.

[shinyribs]

I hate when you're driving,see something cool and cant get the pic.Hers one from a while back.Good sense of humor on this guy.