Just picked up an '81 Custom

[nickels767]

39,000KM, runs well idles well new brakes decent rubber.

On the flip side, something is binding (parked for two years), and smells like it needs a tune, however that might be the two year old fuel in the tank.


This was the posting
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/pml/mcy/3274268838.html

So, few questions, as this is not just my new bike, it is also my first bike.
What maintenance should I do right away, aside from drain the fuel tank and do an oil change?

[rrgunslinger]

Congrats on your purchase.

I would replace the tires, Cheap insurance for sure. Replace the break fluid. Not sure on an 81 but if you can, squart some grease in the swing arm piviot bushing (or bearings).  Adjust the chain.  Get a manual also. Everything you need to do is in there.  

[sgtslag]

The carbs will need to be gone through, cleaned thoroughly, balanced, and fully tuned.

Check/replace the air filter (make certain it has the OEM air box, not Pods...  Pods do NOT work on these Constant Velocity carbs -- don't bother, not worth the cash, nor the hassle).

Get two cans of SeaFoam from Wal-Mart (usually the cheapest source), around $9/can.  Follow directions, and add the correct amount to the gas tank (with fresh gas):  this will clean the entire fuel system, if it is not plugged; it will remove surface varnish throughout the fuel system.

Follow directions and add the correct amount of SeaFoam to the crankcase before you change the oil.  Run it on the center stand, for five minutes, no fan necessary, as it will only reach around 180 F, after five minutes.  Shift it through all five gears, while idling only!  This will allow the SeaFoam to circulate throughout the transmission, and the engine, dissolving all varnish, and all carbon deposits throughout.  Then drain it, replace the now-clogged-with-crap-deposits oil filter; fill it with a quality oil, such as Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic, or Shell Rotella T regular oil (diesel, rated SN for cars, minimal friction modifiers -- will not affect a wet clutch, rated for motorcycle use by the Japanese bike makers, too).

Check for the presence of the OEM fuel filter screen, on top of the petcock, bottom of the gas tank, clean if necessary.  If no fuel filter is present (OEM, or inline aftermarket), install one.  Check the micron filtering size of any filter, smaller is better, but anything 70 microns, or smaller, is good, whether it is paper media, or metal screen, go by micron size only.

Check the tread depth of the tires, replace if worn (you only have two skins to keep you going!).  Check the manufacture date stamped into the side walls (code can be found using Internet search on "motorcycle tire date stamp"):  replace if the tires were made more than three years ago, as rubber hardens with age, becoming more susceptible to cracking (these are tubeless tires...).  I would personally recommend Pirelli MT66 Route tires, but do an Internet search for reviews (only tire I run on anymore, three bikes -- 440cc, 750cc, and a 1200cc touring machine, they are that good, IMO).

OEM Repair Manual is available on the Home Page of this site, for free.  Cheers!

[nickels767]

Went to check the bike out again at lunch today, having only seen it at night time. Getting the bike home on Thursday, but I wanted to start ordering parts before I had it here to work with.

Tires were manufactured in 1999, as was evident by the insane cracks in the sidewalls. Scheduled in for new tires this weekend, yet to decide on exact tire.
While the bike is in for the tires, I'm getting it thoroughly inspected. I fixed the binding, a cable or something was just hooked around some branches on the rear brake.

Well aware of how seafoam works, will do a run through after/while I ride the bike for a couple days.

Pulled apart the turn signal switch, looks like I've got a disconnected wire or something in there, will be fixing that asap.

Brakes feel fine, see no need for concern there.

Carbs need some work, will deal with /after/ I park the bike for winter. I don't want to start hauling it apart when we still have a month of summer weather left.
Honestly won't do the oil change for awhile either, I know it was well maintained before being parked for 18 months, and I don't care how much 300km of riding will do in it's current condition, I want to take it out first and see if it's worth fixing up, or if I should just put it back on the market and resell. I'm not blowing $400 on tires and $250 on carbs and etc just to realize that it's near death.


Question
All of the screws and bolts and stuff in and around the engine have rusted quite nicely, whereas everything else should glisten after some 800grit sanding and some metal polish. Is there a kit I can pick up to replace all the orange screws, or will I have to head to a hardware store and try to match up the lengths and threads??

[shinyribs]

I would try a google or ebay search for an engine screw kit. I know z1enterprises sells a kit like that for the SOHC bikes,but I have never shopped for a DOHC bike. Buying the screw separately would be quite pricey,esp if you go stainless.

[Hellbilly429]

Am not sure if this will fit the DOHC bikes but worth a call or email to find out

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Machine%20Dress%20Up.htm

Also, be sure to check your charging system output, the DOHC charging system sucks and most of us have had to replace the rotors/stators/regulator rectifiers. Just check it the output at 3k rpms and up as they don't charge at idle, should be around 13-14 volts, anything over 15 volts (I believe) and the regulator rectifier is bad.