Regulator Rectifier Hack Help

[Manual]

So my initial implementation  of the Regulator Rectifier Hack resulted in some burnt wiring. The test run went well and all seemed fine but apparently my wiring got interchanged so to speak. Since I seem to be having issues I wanted to get some feedback on this wiring diagram I have pieced together from the FSM and other sources. This is what I "Believe" is how it should look but I can't seem to figure out the green wire.

Also for reference I am using these two components to replace the R/R. The Diagram doesn't seem to make sense without them.

[icerigger]

The green wire is supposed to connect to the flux capacitor.

The rest of it looks right to me. Did the wires fry while the engine was running or as soon as the switch was flipped?

[Manual]

Lets just say this diagram is the result of my lessons learned. My initial setup basically involved going straight across for with existing couplers....with not great results. So the green is unimportant? I cant for the life of me figure out why its there from any diagram.

Thank you for the feedback ice. Hopefully this iteration goes better.

[Butcherblock]

I'm no electrician, but when wiring my turn signals, I connected to green for the ground. It runs all the way through the bike, it even has a dead end in the front (in the headlight) and near my blinker unit. Hope that helps.

[Manual]

Damn butcher that makes sense. Because the case ground is negating the old green. I am going to hope my old wiring didnt kill another part and connect this up, think this will do it. Thanks a bunch

[trapper]

Green is almost always ground on Hondas

[sgtslag]

The positive lead from the Rectifier should connect directly to the Regulator -- not sure which pin, based on your diagram, though.  Look at the spec's for the Regulator:  it should have one terminal listed as input/unregulated input, and one terminal listed as output/regulated output.  Your diagram shows the un-regulated voltage being connected to the battery -- you are pumping 15-20 Volts to the battery!  It is also being applied to the rest of the bike's circuits...  You could fry the entire ignition system, you will boil off the battery's electrolyte, as well as damage its internal plates, and you could burn up the bulbs!

What are the Rotor wires leading to?  If they go to the Rotor, within the Alternator, I'd like to know if the FSM shows that connection...  I have not looked at the FSM schematic, but the Rectifier's output needs to go directly to the Regulator:  the un-regulated voltage from the Rectifier needs to be controlled by the Regulator, it will limit the maximum voltage output to the rest of the bike's electrical system:  lights, ignition system, battery, coils, etc., to less than 15 Volts DC (higher, and things start to burn up!).

Remember, the Rectifier/Regulator is a single unit, from the OEM!  Be sure to connect only what appears on the original schematic diagram -- do NOT add any connections that do not exist, or you will have a very unhappy ending...  Cheers!

[Manual]

Thanks for the input. The schematic above is in theory i havent touched the damn wiring since last night. I am trying get get my head around how these connections should go and the fsm and wiring diagram are near useless.

The connections you see on the left side are the existing connections on the bike that were in harnesses. The 5 pin and three pin respectfully in their own group. The right side is my assumption of where they should connect to my new parts. It appears those assumptions are incorrect and the schematic for the regultaor only shows the labels F and I. With F going to to the alternator FLD  and I going to the ignition switch.

[icerigger]

The alternators on these things don't work the same as a fixed magnet alternator. The stator should never put out 20V if the regulator is working. The rectifier output goes directly to the battery AND to the regulator as that is the voltage being monitored. The regulator then adjusts the voltage down the white to the rotor, to get the desired voltage out the stator.

From this schematic it looks like you'll need to use a different regulator as the rotor black and igniton black shouldn't be on the same terminal. Check out this thread on Deuces Wild.

http://deuceswild.yuku.com/topic/1828/RegulatorRectifieron-the-cheap#.Uao5kEB9Cgu

[sgtslag]

OK.  That makes sense.  I knew the DOHC had electro-magnets in the Alternator, but I did not know how they monitored/adjusted the voltage to the stator.  Too bad that fellow did not return with more updates to how he made it work.  I like his mounting plate for the components.  This thing should not be terribly complicated, just need a complete schematic showing the Rectifier/Regulator connections inside of the OEM device.  All of the pieces are present, just need to know how they interconnect.  Cheers!

[icerigger]

My latest look at this makes me think that the black from the rotor should go to ground, otherwise the only potential the rotor will see is delta between the stator and its own output. As the regulator tries to compensate, I'm not sure if that will either drop to zero or go to the stator output. Either way the circuit will probably oscillate like some beach trying to adjust.

Just my further $.02, FWIW.

[Manual]

It's working thanks to all your help. I got a new regulator that made more sense for this build and hooked it up. Rewired according to this diagram and it's now showing 13.78 volts in at 3krpm and 14.14 at 5krpm. Gave her the gas for about 4 minutes to make sure nothing was burning up then checked the wirin and saw no signs of burning or smell of burning.

Checked the temperature of the rectifier and the regulator and both were cool to the touch. Going to head for a spin in a bit and see what the charge is like and if she holds.

[Manual]

Seems good to go now. Thankfully my initial wiring setup was so bad that the bike just ran iff the battery and wasnt passing anything to the wrong places. The new setup is working and has solved my charging issues. Left with battery at 12.68 came back at 12.89, was in regular traffic and not high rpms. I even managed to stall it once, so I am estatic.

Checked the charge then touched the regulator (slightly warm) and the rectfier (cool). Wiring looked good and nothing smelled burnt. The wiring job ive done is amatuer at best and the mounting needs reworking since i didnt design it with this regulator, but i think this will work as a longterm solution.

Pretty happy that its now a functional bike, hell I even noticed during the ride that all my lights were brighter.

[icerigger]

Dang I love a happy ending. Congrats.