Luke is correct, except you only need to run it five (5) minutes, on the center stand,
idling, shifting through all five gears (this circulates it through the transmission gears), then shut it down, and check the color of your oil: if black, change the filter and oil, immediately; if it is still caramel-colored, then monitor it for 300 miles, checking to see if it blackens (dissolved carbon deposits), at which point you need to change the filter, and oil. The oil turning black, is the trigger for an immediate change.
This only needs to be done once, if you change oil, regularly, with good, high detergent oil, such as Shell Rotella T/T6. The five(5) minutes is sufficient to warm the oil to 180 F, at which point any detergent oil will suspend crud within it, to be caught by the filter (non-detergent oils let it fall to the bottom of the pan, as there is no filter to catch it).
In the fuel system, it will preserve the gas for up to 12 months; it will dissolve varnish deposits throughout the fuel system; it will absorb water (critical with ethanol gas that has been sitting for more than a few weeks...). I use it for winter storage, and occasionally, during the riding season, to ensure a clean fuel system, and tank. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII