hello

[ferroussphinx]

hello i  just recently bought my uncle jacks bike honda cb750 circa 1974 i need
chain and all cables and carb rebuild kit


o your ideas should i  just get a jet kit and i will need lots of help

you see this bike has been in my family for a long time the man who put it together  had a heart attack and a stroke almost three years ago

my cousin bought it from him a couple of years before the stroke and heart attack
and later gave it to his brother

so when my cousin got a new bike  i asked for jacks old one and that was that


now i wantto  clean it up and get it running superb again and pay tribute to my uncle even if he does not remember it even if he was a wild man  i love him and i am proud to have his bike in my garage so that being said   i am going to try and upload some photos of the bike so you all may see and hopefully help because thats why i came here <n                                                                                                <nabble_img src="DSCN0430.jpg" border="0"/>

[wvhardtail]

Welcome. You have come to the right place. This is a great forum and everyone here is pretty cool. I am digging your bike! Love the fatbob tank. I have one that I am fabbing up for mine. It's great that your keeping in the family. Good luck with it.

[Re-run]

Yeah, nice ride there!
Well I can tell you that if that is a 74 and not too much has been played with in the drive line, the chain should be a 530. Stock gearing in 74 was pretty unusable though. The front sprocket was an 18t and the ratio ended up being really low. However, if he did more than just put stacks on the bike, say a larger cam and such, you may be just fine. Count the teeth you got on the front and back and see what you got. A good gear combo was 17/47.

Cables should be fine. It does not look like he put on taller bars so honda still has cables. They are pricy but last and don't need lube. You can cheaper motion pro cables but they will need periodic lube.

As for the carbs, you may not need a rebuild kit. Pull them off and clean them up good. Make sure no crud is stuck to the jets or plugging anything up. You may find they are just fine with a little cleaning.

Be sure to download the manual here.

[ferroussphinx]

thank you very much i hope to get pictures of my crazy uncle on here to he is pretty awesome although he is about sixteen in mentallity now but hey i wish i was sixteen again lol   thanks very much i am taking a stab at saying 18t means    18 teeth   thank you and let me know

[ferroussphinx]

hello fatbob tank love that did not know what it was  called  and i need risers and gas cap replacements because over the years the bars have hit the caps thanks again for your interest

[ferroussphinx]

Re-run wrote

Yeah, nice ride there!
Well I can tell you that if that is a 74 and not too much has been played with in the drive line, the chain should be a 530. Stock gearing in 74 was pretty unusable though. The front sprocket was an 18t and the ratio ended up being really low. However, if he did more than just put stacks on the bike, say a larger cam and such, you may be just fine. Count the teeth you got on the front and back and see what you got. A good gear combo was 17/47.

Cables should be fine. It does not look like he put on taller bars so honda still has cables. They are pricy but last and don't need lube. You can cheaper motion pro cables but they will need periodic lube.

As for the carbs, you may not need a rebuild kit. Pull them off and clean them up good. Make sure no crud is stuck to the jets or plugging anything up. You may find they are just fine with a little cleaning.

Be sure to download the manual here.

o yes of course i should tell you i have no motorcycle experience

i left the fuel on overnight and next day had a mess so
there it is

it is the leaking bowl story o no    its  the one in the far left either the fourth or the first bowl  on the clutch side

also when i go straight to W.O.T  it dies   dead dies so let me know

[Re-run]

Yes 18t would mean teeth so ya got that.
The fuel mess means the floats are sticking. this is usually caused by dirty floats and seats. Sometimes the pins need to be cleaned too as it could be from getting gummed up with varnish.
For this, you would just remove the bowls and you will see the floats. Remove the pin and they fall out. from there you will see the float needle attached to the float. The tip should hopefully be rubber(those are the good ones). Clean it well and inspect for tears or rips or just worn use. Replace if needed. now for the seat. Take a q-tip and dip in rubbing alcohol and twist on the seat. This should get the crud off. Make sure the floats move freely on the pins and that should be it. Most likely though, a thorough cleaning of the carbs will be needed.

[ferroussphinx]

Re-run wrote

Yes 18t would mean teeth so ya got that.
The fuel mess means the floats are sticking. this is usually caused by dirty floats and seats. Sometimes the pins need to be cleaned too as it could be from getting gummed up with varnish.
For this, you would just remove the bowls and you will see the floats. Remove the pin and they fall out. from there you will see the float needle attached to the float. The tip should hopefully be rubber(those are the good ones). Clean it well and inspect for tears or rips or just worn use. Replace if needed. now for the seat. Take a q-tip and dip in rubbing alcohol and twist on the seat. This should get the crud off. Make sure the floats move freely on the pins and that should be it. Most likely though, a thorough cleaning of the carbs will be needed.

cool


what is the seat and why does it die when i roll straight on the gas    

[ferroussphinx]

Re-run wrote

Yes 18t would mean teeth so ya got that.
The fuel mess means the floats are sticking. this is usually caused by dirty floats and seats. Sometimes the pins need to be cleaned too as it could be from getting gummed up with varnish.
For this, you would just remove the bowls and you will see the floats. Remove the pin and they fall out. from there you will see the float needle attached to the float. The tip should hopefully be rubber(those are the good ones). Clean it well and inspect for tears or rips or just worn use. Replace if needed. now for the seat. Take a q-tip and dip in rubbing alcohol and twist on the seat. This should get the crud off. Make sure the floats move freely on the pins and that should be it. Most likely though, a thorough cleaning of the carbs will be needed.

so i need to take the carbs  off the bike and apart ???

[Re-run]

If the bike has sat for a while, then it would be for the best. The seat is where the rubber tip of the needle sits.

[ferroussphinx]

Re-run wrote

If the bike has sat for a while, then it would be for the best. The seat is where the rubber tip of the needle sits.

okay cool downloaded a manual so that should help    



what would a 17 39 gear ratio be like

and what would be the benefit of jetting the carbs

and lets say i wanted to put a power commander on the bike would i be able to

[ferroussphinx]

NEW HAPPENINGS

18 t on front with two broke off

CHAIN   JUST AS BOUNCY AS A TRAMPOLINE


AND   where the chain feeds into there is a broke piece of metal hanging on by god knows what so that
is hitting the chain everytime it moves flopping on it   i will put pics up later real soon


47 t on rear



and the grand finale i looked into the cones or pods of the carbs the screens are jacked

no pun intended  

[Re-run]

Well lets just say that a power commander will not do anything for you so don't waste your money on that.
Jetting is really only required if you make mods to the intake such as pods or stacks, mods to the engine such as porting or boring, or big changes to the exhaust such as going from stock to drag pipes.
Unless you do that, the stock jetting is good.

Also, get a new front sprocket! You do not want to have to fix a hole in the case from the chain hitting it. Besides that, if the chain slips off and locks there, you are sol in a bad way as the tire will lock up and could throw you off. Ideally you should replace both sprockets and chain at the same time.

As for the screens, you should be able to replace those with some new metal screen material.

[ferroussphinx]

okay    here is the bad pictures and hopefully someone can give me step by step on how much and so on
to fix this  huge mega-problem  and what are stacks and such that   re-run has mentioned
             this is whats broke  






 the metal shavings
 rear sprocket

[ferroussphinx]

i was hoping someone would have replied lol  ok



did i post this in the wrong place ?????

[LukeM]

Patience, grasshopper...patience.

Luke M

[ferroussphinx]

what kind  of  a problem would it be to epoxy it together or just rip it out of their ?? and where can i get matching chain and sprockets i want great take off and decent top end so what  size sprockets should i get and such  
'



sincerely depressed in indiana lol

[wvhardtail]

I could be wrong but those metal shavings could be from the chain slapping the case around the front sprocket. That is not good. The manual should explain how to change that sprocket out. You have to take the chain off to get the sprockets off. And I agree. You should change both the front and rear sprockets together and that chain ain't looking so hot either.

[ferroussphinx]

wvhardtail wrote

I could be wrong but those metal shavings could be from the chain slapping the case around the front sprocket. That is not good. The manual should explain how to change that sprocket out. You have to take the chain off to get the sprockets off. And I agree. You should change both the front and rear sprockets together and that chain ain't looking so hot either.

yes very good and thank you



however what should i do to remedy that broke part