1. The restrictors will stabilize the vacuum in the gauges and cause the needles to jump around much less. Just don't close the restrictors too much, the needles should vibrate a bit.
2. Don't be concerned about the position of the needle in the gauge. As long as your bike idles at the correct idle speed and each needle is equal in relation to one-another, there's little else to worry about.
3. If you're concerned about low vacuum, check your engine compression. Warm up the engine, unplug all of the spark plugs, connect the tester and compare the PSI to your manual's specs.
4. If your carbs won't sync or you notice some surging/bogging, you may have a vacuum leak or incorrect fuel/air ratio. More on this below.
First, check for vacuum leak:
With the engine idling around recommended idle speed, take a can of carb cleaner or other combustible solvent. Spray it onto one side of one of your boots. Wait approximately 1-minute. If your motor doesn't react differently, spray the other side of that same boot. Then repeat for the other boot on the same carb and continue with each individual carburetor.
IF the engine surges when you spray a boot, that boot is leaking. Don't stop there, be sure you get through the entire procedure and note which ones are an issue. I always recommend replacing all boots at the same interval.
Set air/fuel mix:
Turn the mixture screw on each cylinder all the way in until
lightly seated. Then, turn each screw out an equal number of turns, between 2-3 1/2. Check your manual for proper bench setting. Then, with the engine warm, turn the mixture screw on #2 cylinder out or in until you find the highest idle you can achieve with this one adjustment. Once the idle raises, turn the large idle screw out until you return to just BELOW regular idle, the screw that is in the center and adjusts the entire carb set. Repeat for other cylinders, always turning the large idle screw down between adjustments.
Proper sync:
Adjust the large idle adjustment screw (the one that adjusts all carbs) such that your bike maintains close to 1000-1100 RPM (general idle, yours may be different. Check manual). Then, with a manometer, match #1 to #2. Then match #4 to #3 (regardless of where #3 is) and finally match #3 to #2. Set your idle screw one last time.
Not trying to be demeaning or condescending, but you never know who else will find this thread
I'll be posting my compact manometer here once I get the corks for it. Fits in most small tool kits and easy to set-up and store.
Edit: Wow, I made some errors clarifying. Last time I post after spending so many hours exhausting myself on a bike.