1974 CB750K Project Bike

[shultz_1978]

First cleaned with hot soapy water. Then used a small mig and migged the holes on low. I picked up a cream kit on e-bay for 30 bucks. worked great for me. Just thought I would throw it out there. Lots of luck on the bike. It just takes time. But thats the fun in it.

[Scrappyike]

Ok, 1.5 hrs working on these carbs.  She won't give them up.  CABRONA!  All I can see is loosening up the connection to the hose but still no gap between carbs and hose.  I have more movement upward but very little downward.  Is this normal.  I can't get a good grip to pull and push down.  Upward no problem

[shinyribs]

They are tough to get out,but I promise  it will get easier with time. Mine I just push down,but your boots may be healthier and tighter than mine. up or down doesn't really matter. Just keep wiggling until they pop loose. Sometimes it helps to pull or push them as far as you can go and just hold it there for a little while. Usually after a few seconds they will release. You could also squirt some sort of lube aroud the boots for some help. I always lube mine with pb blaster when reinstalling them. Dont worry,like I said, it WILL get easier with time. First time I tried to pull mine I thought it was impossible. I can pull them with ease now. Good luck !

[Scrappyike]

That makes me feel better.  Not having the experience, I tend to doubt what I'm doing at the time.  Thanks for your patience and help.  Onward!

[shinyribs]

I doubt myself all the time. When working with old vehicles it is a good habit to proceed with caution. Some parts are not easily replaced or found. You can do. Patience bro !

[TOOLS1]

Doubt is what separates the good mechanics from the bad mechanics. If, you doubt, you can do it, then don't do it. I sometimes shared the secret that made me a good carpenter, and it also holds true with being a mechanic "a good carpenter can fix his own mistakes."
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[shinyribs]

Doubting is a good way to keep from screwing up. If your not sure what to do next-stop,find out,learn,then continue.But never give up. If you do break it...well,that just means you get to learn more!

[Scrappyike]

Got me something in the mail



Plug some holes, finish cleaning the tank and then seal it.  YES!  Still working on those carbs.  They are slowly coming out.  

I know, I know.  



Again, thanks for the help and support.  

[Scrappyike]

Carbs are off, yay!  



First thing that sticks out are those piston looking things inside are at different levels.  Here is a closer pic



Guess that needs to be adjusted.  

Question I have is should I follow the instructions as noted in the PDF documentation found on the forum or is there a recommended way to clean the carbs?  

Also, any recommended cleaner other than carb cleaner?  

And finally, what should I use to clean the outside of the carbs?  

Thanks again.  Things are moving along.

[TOOLS1]

I have found good old fashioned carb cleaner to work the best. I have tried other solutions, but have been very disappointed. Some will eat the aluminum, and remove the anodizing from the metal parts.
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[shinyribs]

The Worx toilet bowl cleaner is what I have used on carbs for years.Cut it 4:1 with water for the bodies and let the brass bits soak at full strength.It actually fizzes and kinda "boils out" all the little passages.

IMPORTANT!!!: DO NOT use it on your bowls!!! IT WILL ruin the chrome!!! AT any strength.

Yours don't really look that bad,though.Regular off the shelf carb cleaner should do the trick. I like the Super Tech stuff you get at Walmart.It's cheap and evaporates with zero residue.Oddly,it smells like cat urine,though.Strange.

You'll definitely need to sync those carbs,Those slide are way out of whack.Get them level by eye if a good start.

Oh,when you tear the carbs down,be careful with the main jets.The long skinny tower that hold them can be fragile.

[TOOLS1]

The "Works" also removes the anodizing from the steel parts.
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[Scrappyike]

Will be working on them and the tank starting tomorrow.  Will post before and after pics

[Scrappyike]

Pics as promised.  Took the first carb apart.  Jets looked fine and could see through them with no problem.  The smallest one was kind of tight but you could see light at the end.  Cleaning it anyway.  

This is the bowl.  Had a grundgy film all over it



next is a pic of the floats



Valve assembly.  Bracket that screws in was kinda grundgy but does not look like it does anything important other than hold the main jet in place



Inside of the throttle valve



Different angles of the carb



and the jets getting their soaking



Is there anything that I should be cleaning/soaking besides the jets and the bowl?  

[shinyribs]

Those bowls are kinda crummy,but it really doesn't look that bad inside.

Check your needles to see if the rubber is ok on them. Some of the needles dont have rubber tips,instead they are solid metal. I replaced my solid needles with rubber tipped ones it they leaked like a sieve. I put the metal ones back in and have been trouble free for the past 4k+ miles.

When you reassemble them turn the carb upside down with the float on and set the float to level using the brass plate as your guide. Do not compress the inner spring in the needle,just let them fall naturally.

Be very careful if you go to adjust the floats as they can be very fragile. Dont apply and pressure to the black plastic part of the floats,just work the little brass tab up and down with a screwdriver.

[Scrappyike]

The slow jet on the next carb was gunked up.  Had white build up in every hole.  I could not see any light.  After cleaning them the side holes were clear but cannot see any light.  How long can I soak the needle?  I tried blowing compressed air but did not clear.  

The needles are metal tipped.  The bowl on the second carb was cleaner and had more gas in it than the first one I pulled.  Unfortunately it is the one with the clogged slow jet.  

[shinyribs]

You can't soak them too much. You can try to find a little piece of wire to clean them out,just be careful not to accidentally "drill'' them out larger. When I did mine I used a piece of string off of a mandolin. You could strip a piece of stranded copper wire and use one the strands too. The copper would be nice and soft and would prevent accidentally scratching the inside of the jet.

[Scrappyike]

I will see what I can find.  Calling it quits for tonight.  Will do the other two tomorrow.  Thanks for the help.  

[Piute]

   Was talking carbs at work and Scott said use the "G" string off A geeeetare,Paul used a welding tip cleaning tool looked like a feeler gauge different sizes(as Ribs said don't make bigger OR (odd shape)
  I'm no mechanic,(custom Body and paint)But live at Main Street Auto(apt.)SO cuzzin Paul does /teaches me .Yes I Do pay,time is $$
  Pauls bike..Brand new bigg bore engine Got A knock,sent back to Docs hot Shop in Ks.

[Scrappyike]

Got the carbs cleaned up.  Every slow jet was clogged with the exception of one.  Put them back together and encounter a problem.  When opening/closing the choke, it opens/closes a set of 'lids' in each carb.  When I put back together they were not opening.  I figured out that there was some kind of linkage and got them hooked up.  Now, they don't close completely.  I don't have any pics from that side so I am not sure if they are suppose to close 100%.  

Here are pics with them closed, open and then closed

  

I just about pulled my hair when they were not opening or closing and earlier I had noticed a piece laying about and could not figure out where it went.  I noticed a piece covering the hole where the choke rod would go into on another carb and that is how I found were that piece went and solved the problem.  Now to solve this one as far as whether they are suppose to close completely.  

I'm slowly getting there.  Thanks again.