I assume you are asking what to do to get it running?
1) Check the battery, top it off with distilled water, charge it fully, replace it if necessary -- if it hasn't been cared for, it will be shot, so plan on replacing it, period.
2) Change all of the fluids, but some will require some special care...
A) Review the manual procedure for changing fork fluid. Add a couple of ounces of
SeaFoam to the old fork fluid, with the front end on a jackstand to support the bike, so you can manually lift the forks up/down, repeatedly (top caps off), to mix/flush/circulate the
SeaFoam throughout the fork assemblies -- this will dissolve varnish deposits within the forks. Then drain the old, and install new
Dexron III/IV/V ATF fluid, as per the book (the newer versions are completely compatible with the old III formula).
B) Check the color of the engine oil to see how dark it is; add the correct amount of
SeaFoam to the crankcase, and run it, on the centerstand, for five minutes, idling, shifting through all five gears, to dissolve crud in the engine, and the transmission. Drain the old oil (will likely be coal black by now...), change the filter, and put in fresh oil.
C) Add the correct amount of
SeaFoam to the gas tank, run it for five minutes to circulate it through the fuel system, and carbs (this can be done concurrently with the oil flush; this step assumes the bike will run...); let it sit overnight to dissolve varnish deposits, then run it to empty the gas tank as soon as possible -- run it at least 120 miles (full tank to start with), to burn off as much as possible, before re-filling it with fresh gas. You may want to treat the second tankful, as well, just to be sure you get as much varnish out of the system, as possible -- put a new fuel filter in, or clean the OEM screen by soaking it in pure
SeaFoam overnight, then dump that used
SeaFoam in the gas tank -- it will burn just fine, the varnish will be liquified, so no issues. (Check for rust... If there is no fuel filter, add an in-line filter to prevent rust/crud from reaching the jets in the carbs.)
D) Flush the brakes with fresh brake fluid only, making sure it works properly, and that the pistons do not stick.
3) Clean the bike; check the tires, replace them if they are more than 3-4 years old (rubber decays over time, dry-rot, etc. -- if they're old, they are NOT safe to ride on no matter how good they look...); look for loose nuts/bolts; lube the control cables (spray cable lube is easier than motor oil, as recommended in the book), and the gauge cables (same); lube the swing arm (grease gun); check/replace the air filter, as necessary.
4) Adjust the tension on the Cam Chain (see the book: if it is like the DOHC K, it is loosening and tightening a couple of external bolts, in proper sequence, while the bike is idling, at operating temperature).
5) The carbs will most likely need to be tuned and balanced.
6) Enjoy the ride!!!
Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII