Unfortunately, I am one of the least knowledgeable here, but I can answer some basic items:
Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) from this site, off the home page, a couple of lines above your posting.
The model number/type can be found on the steering head, by turning the handlebars all the way to the right, looking on the left side, just in front of the tank, on the steering head stem. You will see a label with the year, model number, and VIN.
Change all of the fluids, of course (oil in the engine/transmission, which share it; ATF in the fork tubes, see below). I would recommend
Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic diesel oil: it is rated SM for cars; it won't break down into carbon sludge until around 450 F, and your air-cooled engine will warm the oil to around 250 F (dino oil breaks down above this temperature...), running down the highway; it will turn over super-easy, as it is 5W-40; it will last for 7,000 miles, longer with oil analysis, if you want to invest in it. I'd flush the oil with the cheapest stuff you can find (
SuperTech, from Wal-Mart is inexpensive), along with a new filter. Then add 4 oz. of
SeaFoam to the oil, run it (this is after you get it running, of course...) for five minutes on the center stand (I have a temp. gauge, five minutes won't overheat the oil, so no fan is needed, unless you want to, but you need the oil to reach 180 F, at least), shifting through all five gears, idling. This will dissolve carbon, and sludge, present in the engine, and the transmission, which will get captured by the filter... Then change both the oil, and the filter, again -- this time use some good oil (
Shell diesel is excellent -- no friction modifers in any diesel oil, any brand, but
Shell is inexpensive, and high quality, around $26/gallon for the T6, at Wal-Mart).
The tank may need to be cleaned, and coated, depending upon what the rust condition is, after you get the sludge/varnish out of it. Not sure of the proper method to clean it, but
SeaFoam is a great way to clean it, and the carbs, if they are not too dirty, or too much varnish, but you are likely beyond
SeaFoam's capabilities.
Get some new tires on it! Unless they are less than three years old, they may look ridable, but they probably are not... I only buy
Pirelli MT66 Route tires, but that is just me. Search for owner's comments on the Internet: great wet traction, almost unaffected by grooves in the pavement, tar snakes, and grated bridges! Yes, you can put tubes into them, even though they are tubeless: they may run hotter, but mine have been on for 3,000+ miles, riding two-up, with full saddlebags, trunk, and tank bag, on a 1,935 mile tour around Lake Superior, through four days of cold rain, in Canada -- it was as though we were glued to the road on those tires, leaning in curves, running at 60 MPH, because we were suffering mild hypothermia, and we needed to make some mileage. I love these tires.
Drain the box, beneath the battery, which catches water from combustion -- I forget what it is called, but it needs to be drained periodically. It may be empty, but check it. The FSM will tell you how to check/drain it.
The fork tubes use
Dexron ATF (current flavor is
Dexron III/IV, which are backwards compatible). It is cheap, and it works. I would recommend adding in 2-4 oz. of
SeaFoam, to the fork tubes, before flushing the ATF, or you can put in fresh, add the
SeaFoam, pump them 10-20 times, let it sit for 30-60 minutes to allow it to dissolve the sludge in the tubes, then drain, and refill, as per the FSM. I am a huge fan of
SeaFoam. I use it in all of my vehicles, with great success. Search the Internet for its merits.
You may need to change the battery. If so, consider getting an AGM: more money, but it won't discharge over the Winter storage months; it will last 5+ years; maintenance free! A smart, trickle charger, like the
Battery Tender Jr., can be used to keep your battery (any type) topped off, which will prevent sulphation, extending the life of even a lead-acid battery quite a bit -- if you plug it in after every ride... Can also be used over the Winter, without boiling off your acid: it is microprocessor controlled, with three stages of charge, automatically switching modes, as needed.
All of this is pretty simple stuff, most of it aimed towards maintaining your already running bike. Sorry I can't be of more direct assistance, but the other members will fill in that void. Best of luck! Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
Locked
. The clutch does run in the engine oil. That is why oil's with friction additives are not recommended in these bikes. To remove the carbs just remove the 8 band clamps holding the carbs to the air box, and the rubber intake boots. They are kind of hard to get at, but not impossible.
