1980 CB750K Cafe Project (hopefully)

[Griffin]

I'm not able to get the main nozzle out of the first carb. I thought it would unscrew but I'm just messing up the head. Any suggestions? Hate to drill and replace it but I think that may be my only option. Seems to be pretty stuck.

On Feb 20, 2016 10:03 PM, "Griffin [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Picked up the bike today! Here are some pics. I'll be selling the seats, sissy bar, crash bar, and maybe a few other things once I get a cafe seat and cut the rear.





And one of my Guzzi just for fun.

Dave Arnold
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[Griffin]

Hoping to finish the carbs tomorrow. Ran into a few problems. Main jet nozzle is stuck in carb 3. The top is now flat so it's not coming out without a drill at this point. I'm leaving it in and hoping for the best. Shot some extra carb cleaner down there to clean it out.

I also found and old repair that fell apart on me. See pics. Going to JB Weld it tonight.

Also found the left ignition coil has cracks that someone filled with silicone. I'll be looking for a new one. This bike is a little worst off than I thought but I'm enjoying the process.

[Griffin]

Got the carbs back on today with a new air filter and she started right up, no leaks from carbs everything looks and sounds great!

I was surprised at the sound. I've never ridden one of these and it has a nice throaty sounds to it.

It's nasty out today so as much as I want to ride it, it's probably not a good idea.  I also need to fix a valve cover leak.  The old owner said the hole was stripped and I'd need to insert a helicoil to fix it.   There's oil all over the engine, I tried to clean it off but it started smoking once the engine warmed up.

I'll do the test ride as soon as possible though.

[Griffin]

I went ahead and rode it in the rain. Feels good to me! I only went around a parking lot but throttle was good, no dead spots.

On Feb 24, 2016 5:09 PM, "Griffin [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Got the carbs back on today with a new air filter and she started right up, no leaks from carbs everything looks and sounds great!

I was surprised at the sound. I've never ridden one of these and it has a nice throaty sounds to it.

It's nasty out today so as much as I want to ride it, it's probably not a good idea.  I also need to fix a valve cover leak.  The old owner said the hole was stripped and I'd need to insert a helicoil to fix it.   There's oil all over the engine, I tried to clean it off but it started smoking once the engine warmed up.

I'll do the test ride as soon as possible though.

Dave Arnold
Xclusive Sites - Web Development - xclusivesites.com
ISSA Certified Personal Trainer - onlineptconnect.com/xclusivesites/
Instagram @phparray

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[Griffin]

I've compiled a pretty large list of parts to buy for this build. Having a hard time deciding what to work on first. I've ridden her a bit but I need new tires, the rear is warped from leaning over on the kickstand for 2 years.

Need to tighten the cam chain and check valve gaps. There is a non-factory bolt in the cam/valve cover. I think the old one strippes the hole so they stuck in a sightly larger bolt. I want to address that too.

Planning on swapping both front and rear to the cb750f model so I get an 18 inch rear with disc brakes and dual disks on the front.  May lower the front for a more aggressive look.

Also want to repaint everything, add clubman bars with mini speedo and tach with indicators. Going with an integrated brake/turn signals on the back and mini signals up front.

Planning to fabricate a seat from the old seat pan. Thinking about hiding the battery under it and rewiring to clean up the triangle.

Not sure if I need a rear frame loop or not. I was thinking if it needed bracing I could weld a piece straight across. I just don't know if people do the loops for support or strength.

So that's my rambling thoughts. My wife keeps asking why it needs to be done so quickly. I'm not sure what she's talking about. I've barely gotten started.

[Griffin]

A few wheel painting pics.






I have 2 calipers painted, the rear swing arm and brake stay as well. I just need to take pics of them. Progress is slow but all in good time.

Tires came today. I went with the stock sizes after reading comments about wider tires making it harder to lean.

[Griffin]

Got the engine out today.


Going to start pulling the cams out to replace the head gasket. Gasket is on the way.

The engine is really grimmy! Hope I can clean it up some before putting it back in.

[18Bravo]

Look like it's coming along nicely!

[Griffin]

Got the cams out today. And here's a picture if the painted, lowered front forks.

[Griffin]

Pull the head off today. I did it over the course of a few days and bagged all the parts. Cleaning it now getting it ready for the gasket.

[shinyribs]

I haven't been on the forum as much as normal. Totally missed the start of your build. Welcome to the forum

You are cooking right along! Props to you for jumping in head first. Good luck!

[Griffin]

Thanks!  I'm having fun and so far haven't done too much damage.  This is a great forum, I'm thankful for all of you.

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 1:22 AM, shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I haven't been on the forum as much as normal. Totally missed the start of your build. Welcome to the forum

You are cooking right along! Props to you for jumping in head first. Good luck!

A free people ought not only be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.~George Washington

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[Griffin]

Cleaned up the top here and the piston heads.

[TOOLS1]

That looks like new. What did you use to clean it up?
TOOLS

[Griffin]

Thanks! I used some brake cleaner sparingly and made sure not to get any in the cylinders or cam chain opening. Mostly just scrubbed it with steel wool. Had to carefully scrape off some of the old gasket too. Steel wool does fall apart so I kept the cam chain opening covered and shop vac'd around it, the stud, cylinders, and doll openings.
Need to work on the underside of the head next.

On Apr 5, 2016 5:39 PM, "TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

That looks like new. What did you use to clean it up?
TOOLS

Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."

1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)

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[Griffin]

Started working on the head today.  I cleaned up the bottom and values nicely.  It looks like they are seated well so I don't think I'll be taking the valves out. I don't have the tools to do it so I'm glad they look ok.  Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge there doesn't appear to be any warping either.

It's really dirty from years of a leaky cam gasket.  Happy to take any cleaning tips, how do you get into all the fins and crevices?  I was thinking about using engine degreaser, engine brushes, and a spray bottle of acetone and water. I did what I could today but it's still not clean yet. I using a nylon brush with some engine degreaser and it seamed to be moving the grease around instead of getting rid of it.  I had to use a rag to wipe it off as best I could.  There has to be a better method. I was thinking about painting the engine but that paint won't stick of the engines not clean so I don't know.

The head gasket came in today. The shop manual says to use molybdenum disulfide paste on the head bolt threads and cam shaft bearings.  I ordered some Honda Moly Paste M77 for that, Permatex Rubber Gasket sealant for the cam gasket, and a helicoil kit today so that I can put it all back together.

I didn't take a before pic of the head but I'll post one of the end result.  Glad I'm not in a rush this stuff takes awhile. I keep looking at the chassis waiting to be broken down, stripped and painted. I want to be done by June so I can ride it the whole summer. That's the goal right now.

I did polish up some of the covers.  They are pretty good. I used rubbing compound and a grinder with a buffing bonnet for that.  They don't look like chrome but they look good.  Still have some work to do on those too.

[shinyribs]

Those aerosol cans of engine degreaser seem like just cans of diesel fuel to me. I don't think they clean very well, either. IF you are planning to repaint anyway, oven cleaner (lye) cleans very nicely, but it'll wreck any remaining paint. Pretty foul stuff to be working with, so doing it outside is really a must.

Nowadays, regular ol' paint thinner is pretty low VOC, so using it indoors isn't bad at all. You can get a gallon of it at Lowe's for about $6-8. A gallon goes a long way and cleans very well without leaving behind a greasy residue. A little more pricey, but you can go with mineral spirits ( I personally cant stand the smell) or denatured alcohol to clean with, too. Paint thinner evaporates fairly quickly. I like to brush some one and work it around, then give it a quick blast with a water hose. If working indoors, I do it over a bucket and use a pump-up sprayer to rinse with. Or, if it's really nasty,rinse off with brake cleaner. But water is free.

Re: valve seats. A few drops of food coloring in some water and a paper towel underneath will let you know if they are sealing without disassembling. If you find traces of a leak you can reseat a valve at home. It's simple, but takes a little elbow grease. Just pour you a little puddle in the combustion chamber ( with the head upside-down, of course) and let it set overnight before checking for leaks. A little valve grinding compound goes a long way and a tube of it from an auto parts store is only a few dollars. To spin the valve I use a rubber hose ( vinyl fuel line works really well- it grips great) on the tip of the valve, the other end of the hose I stick on a drill bit chucked in to a hand drill. The suction cup stick thingys they sell to do the job work, but they're constantly losing suction due to the compound and will drive you batty from constantly having to clean and reseat the tool. Of course, if you end up lapping the seats like this, a full head disassembly will be in order to  get all the compound and grit cleaned up properly. That'll require a valve spring compressor tool ( possibly homemade will do ) and new valve seals. ANY time you pull a valve through a valve seal it pretty much will wreck the seal. And due to how the valves in these heads are constantly submerged in oil, new seals will end up being a must. Not a bad job to do,but a possible expense, so just a heads up. You can find many vids on youtube about lapping valves. It's not a bad job at all. A little mind-numbing for sure! But a pretty rewarding feeling once done,too.

[Griffin]

Thanks!  I've found none of the jobs are really that hard once you understand them.  I watched a video on value lapping and it looks pretty easy, just time consuming.  It looks like you can cut a window in a deep well socket and use a large clamp to depress the valve springs and remove the retaining clip. That was a key part that I was missing. I see the valve spring compressors can run roughly from 75 - 110. Although I just found this one on ebay for 22 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371182355390.

I was thinking I'd just leave the valves in but it seems like a better idea to pull them, clean and do the valve lapping.  I mean it ran pretty well before I took it apart and they "look" ok but I should probably be patient take my time and do more of a complete job so I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon. At least I really don't want to take it apart again any time soon.

I'm getting anxious about getting it done but I really do want to do it right.  I do think I can leave the guides alone.  Seems safe to do so unless I find a bent valve stem.

As for spraying it with a hose; being a noob I worry a lot about getting water in the wrong place. I suppose if the head is broken down, water is pretty safe as long as it's totally dry and oiled before installing the valves. As for cleaning the rest of the engine I think I can install the head, then block off the intake and exhaust ports and install the spark plugs. Will doing that protect it from getting water in the wrong place?  Even if a little water gets into the exhaust ports it probably won't matter right? as long as it's dry before trying to start it.?  I was thinking about zip tying plastic bags over the intake ports.

Paint thinner sounds like a good idea. I was going to try Acetone.  I also got something called Oil Eater from Tractor Supply.  It seems to work better than Engine Degreaser.  Some of the old paint is flaking off  anyway and I think they look great repainted but getting all the old oil off to repaint is going to be tough. Maybe I'll get some oven cleaner and try it on a small section.  I definitely need to get some engine brushes too.  Harbor Freight sells them cheap enough. 

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 1:55 AM, shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Those aerosol cans of engine degreaser seem like just cans of diesel fuel to me. I don't think they clean very well, either. IF you are planning to repaint anyway, oven cleaner (lye) cleans very nicely, but it'll wreck any remaining paint. Pretty foul stuff to be working with, so doing it outside is really a must.

Nowadays, regular ol' paint thinner is pretty low VOC, so using it indoors isn't bad at all. You can get a gallon of it at Lowe's for about $6-8. A gallon goes a long way and cleans very well without leaving behind a greasy residue. A little more pricey, but you can go with mineral spirits ( I personally cant stand the smell) or denatured alcohol to clean with, too. Paint thinner evaporates fairly quickly. I like to brush some one and work it around, then give it a quick blast with a water hose. If working indoors, I do it over a bucket and use a pump-up sprayer to rinse with. Or, if it's really nasty,rinse off with brake cleaner. But water is free.

Re: valve seats. A few drops of food coloring in some water and a paper towel underneath will let you know if they are sealing without disassembling. If you find traces of a leak you can reseat a valve at home. It's simple, but takes a little elbow grease. Just pour you a little puddle in the combustion chamber ( with the head upside-down, of course) and let it set overnight before checking for leaks. A little valve grinding compound goes a long way and a tube of it from an auto parts store is only a few dollars. To spin the valve I use a rubber hose ( vinyl fuel line works really well- it grips great) on the tip of the valve, the other end of the hose I stick on a drill bit chucked in to a hand drill. The suction cup stick thingys they sell to do the job work, but they're constantly losing suction due to the compound and will drive you batty from constantly having to clean and reseat the tool. Of course, if you end up lapping the seats like this, a full head disassembly will be in order to  get all the compound and grit cleaned up properly. That'll require a valve spring compressor tool ( possibly homemade will do ) and new valve seals. ANY time you pull a valve through a valve seal it pretty much will wreck the seal. And due to how the valves in these heads are constantly submerged in oil, new seals will end up being a must. Not a bad job to do,but a possible expense, so just a heads up. You can find many vids on youtube about lapping valves. It's not a bad job at all. A little mind-numbing for sure! But a pretty rewarding feeling once done,too.

A free people ought not only be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.~George Washington

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NAML

[Griffin]

So I just took the first valve out using a clamp and a piece of pvc pipe with a window cut out.  It was pretty easy.  Getting it back in may be another story.  Those retainers are tiny. Retaining clip pliers might do the trick though.  I have a pair with a right angle in them. 

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 4:59 PM, Dave Arnold <[hidden email]> wrote:

Thanks!  I've found none of the jobs are really that hard once you understand them.  I watched a video on value lapping and it looks pretty easy, just time consuming.  It looks like you can cut a window in a deep well socket and use a large clamp to depress the valve springs and remove the retaining clip. That was a key part that I was missing. I see the valve spring compressors can run roughly from 75 - 110. Although I just found this one on ebay for 22 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371182355390.

I was thinking I'd just leave the valves in but it seems like a better idea to pull them, clean and do the valve lapping.  I mean it ran pretty well before I took it apart and they "look" ok but I should probably be patient take my time and do more of a complete job so I don't have to take it apart again anytime soon. At least I really don't want to take it apart again any time soon.

I'm getting anxious about getting it done but I really do want to do it right.  I do think I can leave the guides alone.  Seems safe to do so unless I find a bent valve stem.

As for spraying it with a hose; being a noob I worry a lot about getting water in the wrong place. I suppose if the head is broken down, water is pretty safe as long as it's totally dry and oiled before installing the valves. As for cleaning the rest of the engine I think I can install the head, then block off the intake and exhaust ports and install the spark plugs. Will doing that protect it from getting water in the wrong place?  Even if a little water gets into the exhaust ports it probably won't matter right? as long as it's dry before trying to start it.?  I was thinking about zip tying plastic bags over the intake ports.

Paint thinner sounds like a good idea. I was going to try Acetone.  I also got something called Oil Eater from Tractor Supply.  It seems to work better than Engine Degreaser.  Some of the old paint is flaking off  anyway and I think they look great repainted but getting all the old oil off to repaint is going to be tough. Maybe I'll get some oven cleaner and try it on a small section.  I definitely need to get some engine brushes too.  Harbor Freight sells them cheap enough. 

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 1:55 AM, shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Those aerosol cans of engine degreaser seem like just cans of diesel fuel to me. I don't think they clean very well, either. IF you are planning to repaint anyway, oven cleaner (lye) cleans very nicely, but it'll wreck any remaining paint. Pretty foul stuff to be working with, so doing it outside is really a must.

Nowadays, regular ol' paint thinner is pretty low VOC, so using it indoors isn't bad at all. You can get a gallon of it at Lowe's for about $6-8. A gallon goes a long way and cleans very well without leaving behind a greasy residue. A little more pricey, but you can go with mineral spirits ( I personally cant stand the smell) or denatured alcohol to clean with, too. Paint thinner evaporates fairly quickly. I like to brush some one and work it around, then give it a quick blast with a water hose. If working indoors, I do it over a bucket and use a pump-up sprayer to rinse with. Or, if it's really nasty,rinse off with brake cleaner. But water is free.

Re: valve seats. A few drops of food coloring in some water and a paper towel underneath will let you know if they are sealing without disassembling. If you find traces of a leak you can reseat a valve at home. It's simple, but takes a little elbow grease. Just pour you a little puddle in the combustion chamber ( with the head upside-down, of course) and let it set overnight before checking for leaks. A little valve grinding compound goes a long way and a tube of it from an auto parts store is only a few dollars. To spin the valve I use a rubber hose ( vinyl fuel line works really well- it grips great) on the tip of the valve, the other end of the hose I stick on a drill bit chucked in to a hand drill. The suction cup stick thingys they sell to do the job work, but they're constantly losing suction due to the compound and will drive you batty from constantly having to clean and reseat the tool. Of course, if you end up lapping the seats like this, a full head disassembly will be in order to  get all the compound and grit cleaned up properly. That'll require a valve spring compressor tool ( possibly homemade will do ) and new valve seals. ANY time you pull a valve through a valve seal it pretty much will wreck the seal. And due to how the valves in these heads are constantly submerged in oil, new seals will end up being a must. Not a bad job to do,but a possible expense, so just a heads up. You can find many vids on youtube about lapping valves. It's not a bad job at all. A little mind-numbing for sure! But a pretty rewarding feeling once done,too.

A free people ought not only be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.~George Washington

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[Griffin]

I have all of the exhaust valves out. The face of them are all rough looking like a poor cast. Is that normal? I'll by cleaning and lapping then before reassemble. Wondering if I should grind the faces flat. Not sure that it matters.