1980 CB750K Cafe Project (hopefully)

[Griffin]

[Griffin]

MAC 4 into 1 Black and Chrome

[Griffin]

Put the wiring harness on today and it all seems to fit pretty well. My turn signals and running lights aren't working but headlight high and low, brake light, neutral and high beam indicators, horn, starter button, and on/off switch are all good so I can't complain too much. I'm guessing I should have switched the positives instead of the negatives for the turn signals. Not sure about the running lights or gauge back lights.

Also not sure why I have and extra green wire at the flasher. The diagram seems to indicate it doesn't go anywhere.  Let me know if you know anything about that.

Once the wiring is buttoned up I'll just have to mount the stuff getting painted and make a seat pad. Almost ready to try starting it!

[shinyribs]

Green wires on CB's are grounds. For some reason you see a few of them dangling in random areas from time to time. It's weird.

Some Flasher relays require a ground, but most don't. Just let it dangle bud.

[Griffin]

Haha I'll be sure to let them dangle no worries there!

Oh and all the electrical is done. Just waiting on an LED flasher to replace the old relay.

I'll try to post a pick with the head light on shortly.

On Jul 8, 2016 7:59 PM, "shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Green wires on CB's are grounds. For some reason you see a few of them dangling in random areas from time to time. It's weird.

Some Flasher relays require a ground, but most don't. Just let it dangle bud.

A free people ought not only be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.~George Washington

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NAML

[Griffin]

Got the headlight on today. It's amazing how much that cleans up all those wires.

[OnyxWolf]

Starting to come together nicely.

[Griffin]

Front fender and a look at the wiring.


Still waiting on the tank and seat. It was supposed to be ready today, looks more like Monday now.

The painter said I had to line the tank with the Kreme system because he had to do some welding on it in order to pull the largest dents. He said any pin hole left behind would cause the paint to bubble. So that will delay finishing it by a few days. I did get the clutch cable on today and installed the new LED flasher relay. My signals are working now.

[TOOLS1]

I would recommend POR 15 over Kream for sealing the tank.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I second not using Kreem. I've never heard good things about it. I've got no experience with POR15, but I've got a buddy that swears by Caswell.

I'd be tempted to contact a local radiator shop and see what they've got to offer.

[Truck]

Kreem used to be great stuff till they started putting ethanol into the gas. You can still use it to clean the tank, but I would never use the liner. The ethanol will just cause it to peal and clog your petcock.

[J_Par76]

Looking Great! Oh, so much work ahead for me! Seeing you go through all of this, my mind is spinning in circles.  So much to learn and figure out. Sure i will get it figured out after a lot of reading and trial and error.

[Griffin]

Thanks for the tips guys. I finally get to pick up the tank and seat tomorrow.  I'll have to set it on the bike and take some pics!

[Griffin]

It's an adventure for sure! Enjoy the process!

On Jul 11, 2016 9:16 PM, "J_Par76 [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Looking Great! Oh, so much work ahead for me! Seeing you go through all of this, my mind is spinning in circles.  So much to learn and figure out. Sure i will get it figured out after a lot of reading and trial and error.

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NAML

[Griffin]

Almost ready to start. I laid the tank on the frame with the seat pan to see how it looks. What do you think? Still working on the cushion and mounting for the seat. The starter relay is a bit bulkier then I though. Will do the tank lining soon.

[Griffin]

Having trouble getting it to idle. It runs pretty well at 2000 rpm holding the throttle but is rough under that and just wants to shut off. I'm going to mess with timing today buy It's hard to set when there is no idle. The snippet in the manual on static timing is not clear. It says to align the 1-4 something to the 1.4 si mark. I didn't see the 1-4 thing on the pulse generator plate to align. Going back out now to try and figure it out. I'm concerned I may have to pull the cam cover off and turn the cams one tooth. When I put them back in the holes didn't want to align perfectly to the head. Maybe that's the problem. They are aligned to the head when the pointer is just past the 1.4T mark. Anyone know if I can get enough slack to do that without removing the cam shaft holders?

[Griffin]

I believe I found the marks to set static timing.  Aligning the marks didn't help though.  It seemed to run better the more advanced I turned the pulse generator plate but never well enough to idle. It still wanted to die around 1000 rpm.  I have to open the throttle when it tries to die to keep it running.

Since I couldn't fix it by adjusting the timing it looks like I'll be turning the cam sprockets back a notch on the chain.  I have to wait for it to cool now.  Man I hope that isn't a huge pain, fiddling with the cam cover is no fun and I previously broke a cam holder bolt so I'm stressing about having to take the cam holders out.  I hope I can get enough slack without loosing those.

[TOOLS1]

It is supposed to idle at 1100-1200 RPM. 1000 RPM is too low. Also you should be using a strobe timing light to set timing. And after looking at the pictures I do not see any ports for vacuum lines to sync the carbs. They might be located on the head (I can't remember where they are on a DOHC) if not you could drill and tap 5mm holes in the manifolds for vacuum gauge ports.
TOOLS

[Griffin]

Thanks Tools I thought the idle was suppose to be 1000 but regardless I had the idle screws all but 1/2 turn from dead stop and still no idle.

After 5 hours I have the cams back in, turned one tooth back.  Now the marks are slightly behind but the other way they were slightly ahead.

Once I get this gasket lined up and the cam cover back on I'll try to start it again.  

I static set the timing back to where the marks align and will check it with a timing light if I can get it to idle at all. My arms just aren't quite long enough to hold the throttle and the light while looking at the timing window.

As for syncing the carbs (I googled it) there are screws by the carb boots for that.   I don't have the tools to do it though.  I've seen some cool diy projects so maybe I can whip something up or buy one.

Fingers crossed that moving the cams a tooth fixed the major issue and it will idle.  Then I can worry about fine tuning from there.

Oh I forgot to mention I was getting some white smoke coming out as well as no idle and rough running under 1500 rpm.  Here's to that going away too.

[Griffin]

Well I stripped the threads on a cam holder. The bike did start right up and seemed to be immediately better than before but I still couldn't get it to idle and I think I've fouled the plugs or something because it won't start at all anymore.