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Yippee!!!
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More yippee!!! First time ever on her own feet.
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I'm digging the tires. Details please?
89 VN 750A - Given to son-in-law
79 CB 750K-sold 3 May 21
78 CB 750K
77 CB 750K
77 GL 1000 x 2
77 CB 550F
Holton, KS, US
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They're Cheng Shin's(sp?). The style of tread is what they call a Universal. These are old stock that I got cheap local. Both tires, two tubes, two rim straps and mounted and balanced for $100.
Shinko makes a tire that looks identical to these for a good price. Many tire manufacturers make Universal's.
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Oh, and these are stock rim sizes. 2.15 & 1.85. Rear tire is a 4.50-18. Front is a 3.00-19. Coulda run a 3.50 up front, but I was shooting for tall and slim. Absolutely tickled to death with the tires.
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They do look familiar. I had the same ones on my Chinese dual sport. The seemed okay on that light bike. I only had them on there for a few hundred miles before I went to knobbies so I can't say how they wore.
89 VN 750A - Given to son-in-law
79 CB 750K-sold 3 May 21
78 CB 750K
77 CB 750K
77 GL 1000 x 2
77 CB 550F
Holton, KS, US
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Early motor back in. The one that will eventually be an 836.
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Got front brakes! Duc rotor. Busa caliper. Oughta stop ok.
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Headlight mounted...finally! Time consuming little bugger.
  Current fender idea. Anything lowmounted looked out of place. Not 100% sold on the highmounted fender either. Suggestions?
 Kinda worrying about the amount of exposed rear tire now. I thought the tag stuck out further than it did.  I guess we'll just see how it does.
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I think you should just run a fork brace without a fender.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
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Fork brace would be cool. But I don't need another project. :D Not sure what I want to do about a fender. Nothing suits me. But running fenderless is miserable.
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So, Tools confirmed my fears yesterday. The engine is coming back out. I didn't put the crank seal in when I laid the case halves together. Yay...
It's right smack dab beside a main bearing. Apparently, without this retaining ring the oil pressure can blow the seal out. I believe it.
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Is that Hobart your aluminum or your steel welder?
78 CB750F3 Super Sport
Austin, TX
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It's my MIG that I personally use for steel only. It will weld AL with appropriate wire and/or a spool gun. But I've never tried it. My buddy, Chunky, has a similar welder ( same, but one size smaller) and his gave nice results welding AL with just AL wire. Good enough that he has yet to even open his spool gun.
Common misconception about MIG's that the spool gun is needed to weld AL. Nope. Just keeps the wire cleaner. Traces of steel wire left in the welding cable can contaminate / cause rust. MIG's were developed initially to weld AL.
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Engine is back in WITH all the seals properly installed!  I did some experimenting while inside the trans. Sonce these bikes are known for missed shifts,especially with age, I opened the travel limiter on the shifter fork a tad. It allows the fork to rotate the drum juuuust a haaair more than before. I always had to jerk my sohc in gear. Seemed to me that it just was a linkage issue. It always felt like the foot lever was not traveling far enough. Kinda like instead of the linkage actually moving to the next gear, it was like I had to throw it there. Hard to explain.
Well, it feels great now. Even just bench shifting it takes very little effort to activate the next gear. Literally, it falls into geae vs needing to jab at the shift lever. Hope it feels as good on the street!
  
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This post was updated on .
Shiney, did you get that shifting idea from the other dohc site for the 1100's? I remember seeing a magazine article or something very similar documenting almost exactly what you did. If not, bravo my friend, bravo.
1981 CB750K with 900 cams
90K KM's, rebuilt head, rebuilt carbs, upgraded valve stem seals
My wife's recipe website that I'm trying to help promote: Strawberries for supper. Yes, I am a lucky man.
My cb750 video site
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Hey Professor! Nah, I never registered there. Heard too many bad things about that place.
When riding it's obvious that you MUST use the full travel of the shift lever to get the bike to actually shift. No mercy at all. Not to mention, with age on them now, the tips of the forks where the actuate the drum all have wear on them now. Which has to shorten it's effective throw. Rather than build up those worn tips with weld and having to fuss with polishing, heat treating,etc. I figured this might be a good compromise.
It's nice to know this has been done before. I was worried about over-shifting and what possible damage might occur. This eases my mind a bit now. Thanks!
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That is too cool! I feel so smart! :)
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