Ok. I will do that. Thank you very much for confirming that the thread is right hand. I went out to Home Depot and bought an air impact wrench with 330 foot pounds of torque. I also bought a can of Pb blaster, I'm going to soak the bolt in Pb then heat it up with a torch then hit it with the impact wrench. if it doesn't come off after that I'm taking it to a shop this is bullshit Haha
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----- Reply message ----- From: "rich [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> To: "GearBocks" <[hidden email]> Subject: Check out my new ride! Date: Wed, Aug 29, 2012 9:56 am
It's not reverse thread. Put the bike in 5th gear, have someone sit on the bike and hold down the foot brake and front brake and get your longest cheater bar and stand on it. You may need an impact wrench if that doesn't work. Put the bike in a truck and visit a tire shop, they usually have their air wrenches right out front, and have them pop it off.
79 CB 750K
77 CB 550F
Holton, KS, US
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WOW!!! PB FUKN BLASTER! Never has an "As seen on tv" product worked so good! I am totally sold! A couple blasts of that stuff and and just a 12in socket wrench to get it off. Magic.
WOW!!! PB FUKN BLASTER! Never has an "As seen on tv" product worked so good! I am totally sold! A couple blasts of that stuff and and just a 12in socket wrench to get it off. Magic.
89 VN 750A - Given to son-in-law
79 CB 750K-sold 3 May 21
78 CB 750K
77 CB 750K
77 GL 1000 x 2
77 CB 550F
Holton, KS, US
Hey guys! So I'm pretty stoked on getting the rotor bolt and rotor off my bike, as I thought it would never come off. I can now get on with my project. I wanted to throw out the solution I used for holding my rotor . The c-clamp bit down well and gave me a solid grip on the rotor. This is while I was removing the rotor, but you could do this while removing the bolt too. Just be careful not to clamp to hard, especially if you plan in using your rotor again.
Yes it was a single piece, not the double piece that the manual recommends. It's in the picture with the c-clamp but there is an impact socket over it. Or do you mean the tool to hold the rotor?
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----- Reply message ----- From: "Hellbilly429 [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> To: "GearBocks" <[hidden email]> Subject: Check out my new ride! Date: Thu, Aug 30, 2012 4:01 pm
Sorry I wasn't able to bring this up earlier, but did you buy the special tool they make for removing the rotor?
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I just cannot wait any longer for my parts to come in! Wahhhhh! It's so sunny out! All I have is my 2 smoker 125 and that'll get me a ticket way to fast in my area. I need that British exhaust kit for my huffy bmx. Lol at 28yo I would get hazed by the seniors at the local high school riding around with a cardboard drivin exhaust...oh jeeze.
Hey bro can you tell me how a screw and a nut going into the front of the engine works as cam chain adjustment? It just screws into the front with no spring or anything, it looks to dead end at the end of the threads? What?
LOL. That just dont even look right. Did you download the FSM for your bike? It's quite handy for stuff like this. Not trying to dodge your questions,but I'm DOHC ignorant.
The bolt pushes against a hinged hard plastic piece that rubs against the chain.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
Ok. Should I be seeing something plastic at the bottom of that hole?
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----- Reply message ----- From: "TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> To: "GearBocks" <[hidden email]> Subject: Check out my new ride! Date: Sat, Sep 1, 2012 4:30 am
The bolt pushes against a hinged hard plastic piece that rubs against the chain.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 2
1981 CB 750
1995 KZ 1000 P-14
1981 KZ 750 LTD X 2
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1987 Honda TLR 200
1982 Honda XL 80
2005 Yamaha PW 50
South of Edan (Kansas City MO)
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I meant the one to hold the rotor in place, sorry, this video is a great explaination on how to remove the rotor without that tool just using the single piece removal tool.
You know Lucky, you are correct, I was led to believe this as this is how many others (not just on this forum) have explained this to me, but now I understand that the engine creates the vacuum which reduces the pressure behind the slide which forces the slide up due to the greater pressure that is on the outside of the slide. The pod filters reduce the distance to the outside atmospheric pressure on the outside of the slide, therefore causing them to not operate properly. So with the cv carbs in order to make pods perform anywhere near the way the stock airbox does, you would have to rejet for the change in pressure and either reduce the the weight of the slides or replace the spring on top of the slider with a lighter one. But if you do that, when you go to decelerate the slides might not drop at the correct rate of speed or even drop all the way. So the only real thing you can do is re-jet them and block the air cut-offs in order to richen the fuel to air mixture in order to compensate for improper slide operation, right? But then performance is reduced drastically at any operation range other than full throttle and redlined rpms?
This is all very confusing, but one thing I do understand is that if you try to run pods on these CV carbs you will have a huge problem trying to make them work, and that they will never work right, and that you are just beating a dead horse as a lot of people have attempted to make them work properly and have failed to do so.
If all you are concerned with is looks and not performance, then by all means put them on. All I was trying to do was to warn Gearbocks that pod filters on the CV carbs are a huge headache.
Yeah thanks h.billy, I did watch this vid and its a good one. I recommend it for others who need advice on rotor removal. Also the pod issue is a passionate one. I have seen these bikes on the road with pods so I know people have made it work but getting it to work great is another thing. I wish they worked great with a stock bike cause they look awesome. I bought a set and have since sold them. On another note today is the day my rotor should come in the mail! Which means I could be riding today!! Hell ya! I shoulda called in sick to work...this is way more important
Lmao, did the rotor come in? I'm all excited to figure out how well it works. BTW if you haven't checked out this post by spyder http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/1981-Honda-CB-750-c-extended-bobber-hard-tail-custom-td4028422.html He explains how he got the pods to work on the several DOHC CV carb bikes he has bobbed out and ran pod filters and got them to work. Although he says the throttle curve is almost impossible to get back after using the pods.
Sorry I haven't been on in a few days but I've been riding!! Yes! That's right I've actually been riding my bike all over! I can now park my bike, then in the morning goto my bike pull the choke out and fire it up! So awesome! The rotor works magnificently! It completes charging duties very well! I notice some things while riding that I must change. The front brakes ha e no real power so I'm going to save for some new rotors, steel braided lines and do a complete caliper clean up on the front. The rear brake is working great. Now on to the motor, the clunking sound I thought was coming from my cam chain is actually coming from where my shifter is? I don't think this is a good sign. The noise is a repetitive clunking with very little consistent rhythm, I mean it clunks but not always the same clunk. Also when I'm at full operating temp the clunk is almost all gone. Also when I'm doing 60mph and I hit the throttle hard it feels like the clutch slips? I'm sure I need new plates and a basket but I wonder if its causing the clunk noise as well? A clutch job is on the horizon. Hopefully it will take care of my problem. Otherwise it could be a gear box issue, a main chain issue, shift drum, broken or worn gears... If its bottom end work I will do it over the winter and just ride it now and mentally tune out the noise. I most likely will remove the engine and rebuild it. Probably get a standard piston kit, unless my bores are eff'd up then ill figure out something else. Inspect and replace all parts that look bad. I only want to do this once so ill replace dam near everything I can. Paint the frame and engine. But for now I'm gonna enjoy riding the crap out of my CB! Thank you to everyone who has given me advice and info on my bike. It would have been infinatly harder without this forum! I will post more pics of me on the road, and when I pull the motor I will be posting a lot. Also I am going to post to youtube some vids on repairs that are specific to the 1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport. Will post links. Thanks guys!
I actually ended up buying a K&N filter for the airbox and noticed some performance gains. Pods are sweet but the K&N for the airbox works the best!! I recommend it for those that want better performance than stock but don't want to mess with pods, $40.
Locked
. The c-clamp bit down well and gave me a solid grip on the rotor. This is while I was removing the rotor, but you could do this while removing the bolt too. Just be careful not to clamp to hard, especially if you plan in using your rotor again.
here's a close up of how the c-clamp bit in!
anything, it looks to dead end at the end of the threads? What?
