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Yes I got new boots but I don't have them in hand yet. And yes they are sooo cracked!!! Lol. It's amazing it ran at all. I feel like I got this locked down. I'm gonna RTV silicone around the airbox boots to make sure there is no air leaks after the filter, VERY carefully clean the corrosion on the intake manifold, replace the intake boots, go over my carbs again with a tiny wire and carb cleaner + comp air, once its running hook up a carb sync and get to work. If it has decent compression, no leaks in air or fuel, spark, and is getting fuel, it has to run! It has no choice. If I don't get satisfying results after this then I'm gonna have to look else where like timing, or ignition coils. Sent from Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone
Sorry bud, didn't realise that about the floats as I haven't cracked into my '81's carbs yet and was going off from what I know about other carbs I've worked on. I thought you said you had gotten new boots for the carbs already? God those things were cracked, lol.
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I got the new boots on and hooked up the tank and boom! She started right up! The bike idles on its own, and I even drove it up and down the street! Super exciting! I have a charging system issue though, when its idling and I hook up a multimeter to the battery it reads 11volts and dropping which tells me its only running on the battery power. I have read the manual and plan on doing the reg/rec tests tomorrow. The stator is new installed by po. The fuses look good but there is a fuse that the positive battery terminal connects to but I don't know how to check it. Once I fix the charging issue and sync the carbs ill be able to ride!! That's going to be amazing! She was purring like a kitten even with carbs not synced and idling at 1300. I'm super stoked and can't wait to get it on the road!
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These bikes do not charge below 2,000 to 2,500 RPM.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
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Really  !! So would the bike just die eventually if u idle it a long time? Or would it over heat before that happens? So your saying it might be good! That makes me happy as I'm out of money till payday and can't afford a new reg/rec at $150 or whatever it is.
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Have you checked the voltage at 3k rpms? If it's not at around 13 volts it's probably not charging. Regulator/rectifiers don't have to cost that much by the way, I got a heavy duty one from oregonmotorcycleparts.com for $125, lifetime guaruntee too.
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I bought a new battery (agm sealed) and actually rode all day on sat!!! Woohoo! But my problems don't end there. I realized that indeed my system was not charging. I tested all my components and found that my charging rotor is dead. Not even 0.01ohms, its O.Load on my rotor :( this really sucks because new ones are $350 and I'm not going to get a used one from fleabay because I don't want any doubts. When I replace charging system parts I want new parts, especially because this bike is notorious for charging issues. Also the problem with a dead rotor is most likely it killed my reg/rec too. I am selling my 2000 xr100r today to get money for this. I will be buying an oem rotor & reg/rec. I have tested my stator (continuity to ground on every connection) and its all good. I had fun riding on Saturday but it was on borrowed time. Other than that she's running great! Starts on the first turnover!! Fukn rad!!!! I'm super happy with it and the work I've done. I love my cb!! Oh.. I almost forgot to say, the screw on the 3rd cylinder that is for the carb vacume testing was in so good that I stripped it :( it was a Phillips screw. I was in a panic! I couldn't sy   nc the carbs without taking this screw out! I tried using a dremel to cut a flathead into it, that didn't work! Then I looked in my pops tool chest and found a godsend!! Its a stripped screw/bolt removal bit! You hammer it on and the reverse thread bites on the head then u can use a 5/8 box wrench and it came right off! I was sooo excited when it came off! I'm $500 away from this thing being reliable again!
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Yes, I have seen those. I'm pretty sure that in they are rebuilt, which is fine for me at that price, but it requires that you send in your rotor and it must not be dead, just failing. The site says you must send in your undamaged rotor, I'm not sure if that means like not been in an accident and physically the core is not damaged or if it means the core can't be dead. I will find out cause that's a way better deal. On the flip side paying the money for a new oem insures a good rotor for years to come. As the stock one probably lasted 3 decades or so and 60k miles. I'm not that rich so ill look into the options and report my decision. Thanks bro!
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Ok so I called rick's motorsports, you can send in your old core and get a refurbished 1 for a 140$(btw damaged means not cracked, dead is ok). Or buy a new 1 which is aftermarket part not oem but has a 1year warranty for the core to stay at 5ohms. I'm definatly going to get a new one from ricks, thank you so much!! You just saved me 125$ at least! I'm stoked.
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I'm ok with 180$ & a one year warranty. If it dies before the year is up and I have to send it in to get refurbished, I will ask for a refund and buy the oem. I would hope it lasts longer than a year, but your right there are no reviews so hard to say. I asked them why so cheap on a new unit, considering an oem is 350$, the gal said its an aftermarket part made by them so they make the price. Not very definitive, I know. I'm getting poorer by the day so I'm going to go for it. If anyone knows about ricks or has info about their electrical components please post here. Thanks.
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Also if you get a rotor from ricks, put in the comments section at checkout that you belong to this forum and get an extra 10% off!
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Really? That's awesome man, thanks for the heads up on that. Let me know how it goes cause if it works that will be where I purchase mine from and we can help every other person out with a DOHC with a dead rotor save some money. Usually oem parts are way overpriced just because they are oem and they usually have you by the balls cause they the only ones you can get the part from unless someone makes an aftermarket one.
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Totally bro. I agree. If you were to put a bike together from an oem microfiche (requiring that you could buy all the parts) it would cost you $20k. I didn't calculate that, just guestimate. But it is ridiculous! The parts I bought were 1 new rotor, and 1 reg/rec for 260$ total! And comes with a 1 year warranty on both parts! The oem is $350 and no warranty, but the oem part on my bike lasted 60k miles and 3 decades, so it doesn't need a warranty I guess. Also if it is so good then the factory should offer a 3year warranty and beat the pants off ricks (yeah u pay more, but oem and 3 year warranty, that's hard to beat). Unfortunately that is not the case. Also if you do have a problem with your oem part its not like u can call the Honda factory in Japan and be like, uh.... Ur part failed, please replace it. At ricks they do offer a warranty, and even after that year is up you can call them and they will most likely work out a deal with you. The one observation I did make on their website is the new rotors made by them are $179, the refurbished oem rotors are $205 with a $60 credit as long as you send in your bad one. Seems like the oem are a higher standard or they wouldn't ask more. I asked the service rep on the phone if they have had many returns on their new rotors, she replied "no, definatly not". I obviously understand shes not going to say yeah they break all the time! Or nobody would buy them, but I do believe they have to have some honesty when selling their products. Time will tell as mine are scheduled to arrive end of this week or beginning of next. I will take photos of the new parts and tell of their fitment and function!
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Idk, my bike only has like 30k miles on it, I think the rotors on these go bad based on the amount of time they been used rather than the amount of miles, hopefully it is all smooth sailing for you after this tho.
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Yes, I hope so too. Thanks! Your probably right about the life of the rotor. The main reason they go bad is the insulation that covers the wire coil deteriorates and the wire grounds out somewhere on the body of the rotor. This happens because of the constant heating and cooling of the unit. I believe the unit expands and contracts with the heat cycles and the epoxy type insulation breaks down. There's nothing you can do about that really. Because these bikes are air cooled they run hot. My liquid cooled bike probably doesn't run as hot. Anytime the engine gets to 212 degrees the fan turns on, I bet my cb runs 212 or higher all the time (if anyone has hard numbers on this please correct me). So its just a matter of time before the rotor dies again. The key with this bike Imho is preventative maintenance, when doing oil changes check the rotor for continuity and everything else that's key for running, fuel,air,spark. Also if your having trouble getting your bike to run, back trace those three things and 95% of the time you'll find your issue regardless of make or model. Sent from Milan's Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone
Idk, my bike only has like 30k miles on it, I think the rotors on these go bad based on the amount of time they been used rather than the amount of miles, hopefully it is all smooth sailing for you after this tho.
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Ahhhhhhh!! I can't for the life of me get the rotor bolt off!!! I have looked all over and online to see if this thing is left hand thread and can't find that anywhere. The manual doesn't specify, does anybody know if the alternator bolt is reverse thread? I'm assuming its not cause its not specified, that would be a big piece of info to leave out of a shop manual, right? Please help!
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There was alot of talk about that on here at one time. Try the search function and you should be able to find a lot of info on it. Sorry,I'd tell ya if I could,but I'm sure its on here somewhere.Have you tried swearing at it? I have had great success with that technique thru the years.
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Haha lol, yes it has been verbally assaulted by me and my pops, Damn thing won't budge and its making my clutch slip when I turn it! I am using a c-clamp to secure and a breaker bar but no go. I was standing with one foot on the bar and one foot on the clamp....jumping...uh Wtf! I can't believe it! Im 200lbs and jumping on it, and still nothing. I have read that pb blaster and a torch will loosen things up. I have used the torch method many times before to get bolts with thread locker on them off, but this is not supposed to have thread locker? Right? Can u tell me if its left hand thread? And maybe Ive been killing myself trying to push in the wrong direction?
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It's not reverse thread. Put the bike in 5th gear, have someone sit on the bike and hold down the foot brake and front brake and get your longest cheater bar and stand on it. You may need an impact wrench if that doesn't work. Put the bike in a truck and visit a tire shop, they usually have their air wrenches right out front, and have them pop it off.
89 VN 750A - Given to son-in-law
79 CB 750K-sold 3 May 21
78 CB 750K
77 CB 750K
77 GL 1000 x 2
77 CB 550F
Holton, KS, US
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