1981 CB750 Super Sport

[Johnnylevi]

Thanks Hoosier! Have a question for all of you. Thinkin about getting this chain http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CJE7JG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=A1TFBK3C7LO58P , but it doesnt list the tinsel strength at all just that it doesnt stretch. Does anyone have any experience with these chains and can tell me if its worth it or not? What should i go with? I know that a tinsel strength of 9,000+lbs is good to have. Dunno about brands though.

[Hellbilly429]

It's rated for up to 1000cc touring bike, and reviews on motorcycle superstore are good (Won't let me post link).

[shinyribs]

Bikemaster is a company that buys up huge amount of ''name brand'' parts and remarkets them under the Bikemaster name for a lot cheaper price. I have Bikemaster chains on both of my bikes. One came in as an RK,the other is an EK. Both of them much cheaper than buying them as the actual brands they are. IIRC,the chain on the chopper is 128 links-530 o-ring rated at 9,600 lbs. It was around $70.

The reason the bikes are harder on chains than what their horsepower would make you think is they are a little on the heavy side.

[Johnnylevi]

Awesome. Thanks guys! My bikes comin back home from my grandparents house tomorrow! Finally get to start working on it again.

[motogrady]

Biggest difference in chains is those with orings and those without.
The tensile strength thing, forget about it.
Like most things, cheap ones strech (another word for wear).
Even a good DID  or Reynolds chain will wear out eventually.

The oring chains, no need to lube (a big deal), and they last way longer than the straight chain.
They may be a bit heavier, but we're not building a lightweight dirtbike here either.

I understand the desire to make the bike as your own.
But believe me, a stock bike from that era, unmolested, turns as many, if not more,
heads than a custom cafe'.

Do as you like guy, but please, don't try to bang some knee indents in that tank with a hammer, please............

[Johnnylevi]

Thanks for the experience motogrady. I really dont want to "cafe it out" anymore. The only modifications i plan on doing for now is a 4-2 exhaust( courtesy of matt), Smaller turn signals, a smaller tail light, lowered handle bars and maybe some new gauges. Any experience you can share is really appreciated.

Just got the bike today heres what she looks like without the carbs(I just cleaned them going to be installing them with the stock air box)



Took the old throttle cables out cause they looked like this( I have new ones ready to go)


And while I was checking the condition of my air filter i discovered this!!!

A useable K&N Filter :D Lucky me.

[motogrady]

Congrat't guy, glad to see you got the bike.

It's gonna be interesting to see how you do.

I'm interested to see how the carbs work out, good luck,
keep us posted.

[Johnnylevi]

So I've been tinkering with some things and found this.

I believe thats from the automatic fuel shut off thingy. DOHC guys, do you know if theres anywhere that sells the rubber here? Its pretty thin and doesn't feel quite like I think it should. It was stuck to the bottom of the 3rd piece. I didn't even know this part came apart in 3 pieces.

And this is what it was stuck to.

Waiting for some new O-rings to come in along with some new float needles(a few had the tips broken off).

[Johnnylevi]

was given my grandpa's old 76 gold wing puite I think you're gonna like this!


sure does look comfy. One day I'll get to making this bad boy run again too! Well...maybe if I can start makin a little more money .

[cdaiscool]

I'm 90% certain that's the SOS (Spawn of Satan). It is junk and a headache. I had one (I have a 1981 CB750K) and just took it out. Put a vacuum cover over the hole on the #2 carb, and just hook the fuel line to the fuel inlet direct. That's all you gotta do to remove it from the system.

No complaints here from removing it. But DO MAKE SURE to use an in-line fuel filter too. You would not be happy if junk from the gas gets into your carbs. Plug a jet or worse...

[cdaiscool]

I like that Gold Wing. If you were near me, and looking to sell it, I'd consider picking it up.

[Johnnylevi]

What do you mean a vacuum cover? Like a rubber cap?

[cdaiscool]

Yes. There's a nipple that sticks off the engine-side of the #2 carb.

http://www.cb750c.com/publicdocs/SeanG/Honda_Carb_Manual_revD.pdf this is the guide I used when I rebuilt my carbs.

Page 38:
If your carbs had the Spawn of Satan installed, and you
want to keep it, just reconnect the fuel line to the T, the
vacuum tube to the vacuum “tit” on the front of carb #2,
and install the mechanism on top by removing 2 of the rear rail screws and
reinstalling it.  On a bank of CB1000 or CB1100 carbs, you’ll have to do this as the
SOS also acts as a fuel-splitter to go to carbs 1&2 and 3&4.
If you’ve got a post ’80 set of carbs and you want to bypass the SOS, just don’t
reinstall it.  All you have to do to complete the carbs
is to cap off the vacuum “tit” on the front of carb #2
with a rubber cap.

[Hoosier Daddy]

+1 on the Spawn of Satan... send it to the spare parts bin. It was a safety feature to shut off the gas when the engine was not running, opens by vacuum. 30 years later they are proven faulty, stick and do not let gas flow like yours is.

 Now about theat GL1000... you lucky bastard!!
Spend some time on www.ngwclub.com. they are the highest resource of the old 4 cylinder wings there is. More info than you can imagine in the "ShopTalk" section.
CONGRATS!

[Johnnylevi]

haha my grandpa's a gracious man! I'll try to keep you guys updated with what I do with that too. Thanks for the link hoosier i was wondering if there was a site like this for gold wings. I'm thinkin I'll keep it as he has it and just polish/ rechrome some stuff. Also, since its been sitting for 30 years there will probably be a lot to do internally, but as far as looks its stayin the same!

I'll be heading out to the hardware store today to look for a little rubber cap for that vacuum nipple on the #2 carb. I'm assuming I should take out the T fitting between the 2&3 carb and just replace it with some small fuel line correct?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Here is a couple more GL1000 "tech tips" for ya! Little light reading...

http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm

Randakk is considered a top Guru...but pay special attention to this one!

Starting a GL1000 after a Long Lay-up

Only "T"s should be fuel supply to the carb rack or vents. Without going out and diggin my carb rack out of the box I hate to guess on your "T" between #2 and #3. But probably not remove it.
 Someone else will need to chime in.

[Johnnylevi]

#8 screw protector fit like a glove!


Got to play around a little today and figured if check out how the front sprocket looked.

Dirty dirty dirty

gonna soak in pine-sol over night and clean it off. I looked at the bikemaster chains and even the heavy duty ones are say their only rated for i think it said 400cc bikes.
Shiney, thats the one you use right?

[Hoosier Daddy]

That front spocket needs replaced... pointy top two teeth at 1:00 in your pic. Might as well buy a set with your new chain.

 I think this is the answer to your "T"  Mysterious t piece between carbs on 81-CB750K

[Johnnylevi]

so i guess the answer is...run a tube to nowhere... haha and yeah i was going to replace it. I've got the rear sprocket ready to go. Just buying them in steps as I can.

[Johnnylevi]

So... lets just say i lost that O-ring that I'm not supposed to loose on the #2 carb accelerator pump... Does anyone know what size that thing is? Its in between 2 sizes I've tried  4.4 x 2mm and 3 x 1.5mm. Do they make sizes in between or am I screwed?