CB 750 F DOHC.

[shinyribs]

Dang, those do look nice! And I love the stock fenders on these bikes.

[masiste]

 Nice welding.

[seestheday]

Nice ride.  Love the CR carbs.  Now that is how you make pods work .

Do you find that they make the bike drink a lot more fuel?  I'm guessing you're getting a performance boost.

[masiste]

Hi.

   Definitely a power boost. throttle is way more responsive.  Ready to go on wheelies. Do not care about wheelies but the power is there.

   Due to all this festivities and family visiting have not been able to ride it to get a feel of mileage, but I will definitely take notes. Will fill out the tank and take it for a ride, map questing the route so I get an idea of mileage.

   I am sure these 4 ponies are thirstier than the 4 CVs.  But not bad at all. Have not felt the need to go on reserve yet.

   Will post findings.

   Powerband is great, specially high end torque and rpm.

[masiste]

Fits like Factory.

Swingarm, wheel (5.0) and tire (170/60/18) share in harmony.

[masiste]

Close up of CBX rotors.



Vented Rotors, automobile like,. very cool.

[masiste]

  Vented Disc/rotor. Braking Power.

[masiste]

 Cools and vents as it spins.

[shinyribs]

I saw similar rotors to those on a GL once. Always thought they looked awesome. Like pure '80's superbike stuff. Very cool.

BTW, I'm not trying to say your bike looks dated, of course. I really,really love the 80's styling of the superbikes at that time.

[masiste]

 Hi.

    No issues with dated. In fact a couple guys at different times have mentioned that fact.

    Reality is I have not been trying to have a dated bike, i just tried to mod it performance wise with the less intrusive parts. By intrusive I mean, I have no access to special tools for adaptation, like modern wheels and forks, discs and calipers.

    So after research and time, found out  Race Tech internal components for forks make our older forks perform like modern parts. Cartridge emulators and stiffer springs do the trick.

    Brake wise, I looked into getting larger modern ( than stock ) rotors and calipers, specially for front ( rear brake is just a stabilizer, the main character in a bike is the front brake system ) ... but needed to fab some adaptor plates.  Same thing if I were to get modern calipers. Not rocket science, but with out needed facilities, it would cost an arm and 2 legs to have someone do all that. Honda CBX 1000 Pro Link has awesome rotors and corresponding calipers. Best thing is it is a bolt on improvement. CBX bikes (6 cyl) uses Comstar wheels.

    Wheel wise, adaptors for sprockets , wheel spacers, etc. Forks require steering column fab, swap, and more.

    The money I save in on all that fab I used it to get these rotors which many told me are even overkill (overkill brakewise means assured braking power and performance, vented rotors for cool temp, mean long lasting performance under the most demanding conditions i can find )...parts for front suspension, rear shocks that do the job like these Works Performance units, ....( instead of bothering with adapting a swingarm , monoshock and the rest of it) ....that to me look better than a hidden monoshock.

     Widening the rear wheel allows for a bolt on improvement. Same as stock, just wider.

     I feel also proud of this bike, because it makes sense.

    Seen some awesome bikes, with modern forks, swingarms, suspension, moded frames, in fact all that remains original is the engine.

    Does not make much sense to me, to have a modern bike with a 30 + year old motor.

    Would be easier to get a modern bike, with all the latest body parts, and make engine adaptors to swap in my 750 engine.......  :). Would not make much sense either.

    BTW. Many CBX bikes go through the rigor fork and wheel swaps seen nowadays. Plenty of these original rotors available for us   !

    Calipers and rotors bolt on to the 750 forks.

    Just playing with the cards i have in my hands.

   

[TOOLS1]

I like the way you think! 
TOOLS

[masiste]

Thanks bro.

It is only common sense.

[Hoko]

masiste wrote

Added a Catch Can for a sealed crankcase ventilation sustem.

Great idea

[masiste]

It does a good job.

The thought about that oily vapor, even watery / moist at times fumes ( when we stop our engines, moist, water condenses inside engine ) ingredient making it  inside our intake / carburetors parts is not fun.

Something to think about.

 

[masiste]

Working on adding extra gauges to my gauge cluster.

Now just using parted out tach and speedo, but working on adding to stock cluster a Volt meter and a Amp meter.

Very usefull specially when having charging issues, you can tell wether it is the alternator or the battery the party at fault.

[masiste]

[sgtslag]

I would suggest the Voltmeter is sufficient, while the Ammeter is overkill.  If the Voltmeter reads above 12.8, (likely will show around 14 Volts) at 2,500 RPM, the charging system is functioning, and all is good.  If the Voltmeter is below 12.8 at speed (RPM above 2,500), then your bike is running off of the Battery alone, and it is discharging -- time to inspect the charging system.

If the Voltmeter reads below 12.5 Volts, when you turn the key on (prior to starting), then the Battery is low, or possibly needs to be replaced.  The resting voltage varies a bit, depending on what type of Battery:  flooded, Gel, or AGM.  Check its voltage two hours after a long ride, at highway speeds (this will fully charge the Battery; it will read higher than 12.8 Volts, initially, but after two hours, it will settle down to a stable, resting voltage.  The resting voltage will tell you the health of the Battery:  12.5 (or higher) is good, below 12.0, and you need a new battery!

The Ammeter will read positive current, when the system is charging; it will read negative current when the system is discharging (engine below 2,500 RPM), and this can be very misleading.  Any time the charging system is not charging the Battery, the Ammeter will show a discharge -- this is normal, when the engine is running slow.  It really won't give you much useful information, which cannot be gleaned from the Voltmeter.  Cheers!

[masiste]

Hi.
    I understand what you explain, but my experience tells me I like both gauges at same time.

    If the volt meter tells me battery is low, and i have no amp meter, I could not know if the alt and charging system is the culprit or else.

    Without an amp meter, most people would think the battery is bad, purchase another one, and suffer similar fate.

     If battery voltage is low, and amp meter is also low, then you know the battery is low because the alternator is not doing its job.

     If the battery is low and the alternator is high, it means the battery is bad, and the alternator is trying to charge it by trying harder and harder, while the battery is not holding charge.

    If the battery voltage is high, very high, and the amp meter also shows high amp readings, then the alternator and charging system is frying the battery, that happens when voltage regulation is way off.

    I think it is peace of mind. With both gauges, no testing nor guessing is involved, no waiting nor experimenting, it is an immediate assesment. When ypu are away from home , this assesment will save you headaches.

    Wish I had an amp meter back when my stator went bad in Ventura. Ca. I could had learnt the charging system was starting to show signs of trouble, in time, so that I would had stayed closer to home. Volt meter alone would had showed low juice, better than nothing, but most people might think, low battery, ok, at least I am moving, I will make it home. The amp meter would had told me before the battery voltage begun showing signs of trouble, the amp meter would had shown charging issues. Without an amp meter, by the time I noticed battery low voltage, the charging system was beyond help.

   In my case, I feel better having both gauges.  

[masiste]

Just did some work. Rebuilt the rear master cylinder.  Got a kit from Honda and took it apart.

The piston and rubber were worn out, no wonder why it leaked. Gave it a touch up with black rust oleum paint.

Ready to install it again. Will get some photos tomorrow.

Also got a horn. The stock one was kind of dead. So I purchased a loud one, so that vehicles will notice me when I need get noticed.  115 Decibels 345 Hz

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H84UVK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails

[masiste]

Some photos ( phone camera, not that great ) about rear master cylinder.

Like said, piston showed signs of wear, piston seal was worn as well, Spring did not look flattened, but I am sure spring rate must had suffered deterioration. Rubber cap was also worn out.  Rubber boot seemed swollen, enlarged, still doing its job, but it was time to send it into retirement.