CB 750 F DOHC.

[seestheday]

Yep, don't gap them.

I noticed a huge difference, but my bike was not running that we'll before I tried them.

‎After my engine rebuild and carb tuning, I tried them again and didn't notice a difference.  

Sent from my BlackBerry device

From: shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S]

Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 10:15 PM

To: seestheday

Subject: Re: CB 750 F DOHC.

I've heard people say it's best not to touch those plug gaps and just run them as-is.

I have been so tempted to try those. Everyone that runs them seems to love them, but I tried a set in my '76 and it didn't like them at all. Pretty sure I'm the only person with a bad result with iridiums.

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NAML

[masiste]

 Hi.

   Well, got hem on mu way home, and as i went in to install them, plugs are way wider than my bike's.

   Bummer. Running out of time for anything, tomorrow work, and leaving Thursday.

  Sucks.

   They should had given me the plugs DR8E IX (NGK) but instead gave me BR8E IX (NGK)

  Guys at  local shop (del Amo Motorsports) did not have them, and told me their branch in Long Beach did have them. Called to confirm and there I went.

   Went directly to parts, to retrieve the plugs. But someone fucked up and put the wrong plugs in order.

  Sucks.

[seestheday]

I didn't look closely enough before. Those are the wrong ones. I believe you need the ones that start with a d, not b.

[sgtslag]

I put them in my '79 K model:  before, with regular plugs, I had to grind the starter for 5-7 seconds before it would catch; with the Iridium plugs, it started instantly -- I jumped the first time I hit the button as it came to life the moment the switch closed!  They made a tremendous difference in my Honda (known for weak OEM coils -- not enough voltage across the plug gap's to get a truly hot spark; modern coils put out such high voltage, that if you get hit, a trip to the ER, to have your heart rythm checked by an EEG, is required...).

I put them into my Voyager, based on the results achieved in my Honda, but the '93 Voyager has much better (higher voltage) coils, so no noticeable difference in performance.  Still, Iridium plugs are good for 100,000 miles in cars/trucks, so they should last at least 50,000 miles in bikes.  I will take that.  They also require less voltage to achieve a spark, which means they fire more consistently, than regular plugs -- fewer misfires, fewer emissions of un-burned gasoline (allegedly, they will improve mileage by a whopping 3%...).  If for no other reason, they will last a lonnnggg time (assuming no fouling).  Cheers!

[masiste]

Good to lnow.  

Racing against time.  shop will have the plugs for me by 5pm.

My CR carbs are too much for the stock sparkers. Wantt o install ese new ones and run bike , then empty carbs and store bike till I come back .

Can't waitt o see how the CRs react to their new workmates, the Platinum Iridium NGK DR8E IX !

[masiste]

Back from long trip.

    Dusted off my bike. Bike cover and fuel conditioner did good job.

    Bike starts fast but iddle issues still. Did not fix it before I left late January.

    I did change spark plugs dough, to no avail. I suspect it is a jetting issue, was running very rich. Older conventional spark plugs were all blackened with soot (not oily, no oil burning issues, that would be something else!) but one that was lighter.

   No problem, it is a given, these carbs like any other carb swapped needs tunning.

   Soon update, working on it a little each day, this weekend should be all done.

   How is everybody doing ?

[shinyribs]

You know...if'n yer tired of foolin' with those pesky CR's I gotta rack of CV's I'll trade ya.

[masiste]

Hi Shinyribs.

   The only place a rack of CVs will go close to my bike will be the BBQ....Rack of Lamb CV style.....Burnt !

    LOL !

[masiste]

      So after working on jetting my carbs, found out my stator was playing tricks on me.

      After doing the multimeter test looking for continuity between yellow terminals, the stator was declared dead.

      Got one from "Rick's" Electronics. Item seemed great, except for the fact it did not have the rubber gromet attached to cable, gromet that goes on lower side of alternator housing in motor.

      So I had to get the stator connector disassembled so I could slide in place the rubber gromet from old stator cable, and then re assemnle it.

      Purchased a tool to remove female terminals from plug. With it, the locking tab on metal terminal  coild be flattened so terminal could get backed up and out from connector.

     Once that done, reassemble stator. Also changed brushes. Brushes looked worn out. Good. i bought new ones , still available at dealer.  Should last good.

  Here is the tool.



  Connector with female terminals.




  Terminal removed. See tab on underside ? That is what needs get flattened with tool so terminal can slide off of connector. Once ready to re install, tab has to be straightened out so it will re lock.



  Changed brushes. See comparison between new and old brushes.




 


  Finished Product :


 

[masiste]

 These are the part numbers for the alternator cover gasket and both brushes, respectively.

 Each brush has its own part number, not identical to one another.



 Old brushes. One was smaller than the other one, weird, because both are same quality and grind against same material (rotor).

 

 Today went for a ride, electrical work well done, although carbs still need calibration, good idle and mid range, but high rpm ful acceleration still sputters.....but only in high end acceleration.....85%  production, enjoying  my bike now . .  If push comes to shoving I will have to get some pro assistance.

[TOOLS1]

The difference in the brushes is because the one that rubs on the outside ring will get more wear, as the outside ring has a larger circumference. Because of this the outside brush has to rub on more surface area at the same RPM as the inner brush. It's like changing to a different sprocket, or tire does on gear ratios.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I want your shocks.

[masiste]

Hi Shinyribs.

    I like them too. Took them to Works Performance shop a couple months ago and got them re built by them.

    So these are practically brand new.  I have the stock CB750F shocks if you still want some shocks.

   Tools, I hear you, one brush wears out faster because the inner one grinds against a smaller diameter ring, so that one does more revolutions than the outer ring, which is larger.

   Like comparing number of revolutions a 13 inch wheel does per mile versus a 20 inch wheel.

   Makes sense.

 

[Truck]

Where did you get your brushes from? I called my local Honda dealer and the moron on the other end said he couldn't order the brushes.

[shinyribs]

Thanks for the offer, Masiste. I have shocks,they just aren't piggybacks like yours.

[masiste]

Dude.

Got them from Honda of Santa Monica.

Store located in Marina del Rey, Ca 90292.

Here is their number :

 [phone].

  Give them a call. I was told stator and rotor were NLA, but brushes were no issue.

   You have the part numbers in the above photo. Those are the ones I got, OEM !

[masiste]

I hear you dude.

   Will let you know if I come across a set of piggy bags.

   BTW, have tou gone by your shop lately ?  What about making a tach plug for DOHC bikes ?

   later.

[shinyribs]

masiste wrote

I hear you dude.

   Will let you know if I come across a set of piggy bags.

   BTW, have tou gone by your shop lately ?  What about making a tach plug for DOHC bikes ?

   later.

 Guess I should have told you. lol. My fault. Here's the For Sale thread for the plugs.

[masiste]

Saw it bro.

    Send me your address so I can send in my payment.

    Sign me in !

   

[shinyribs]

I sent you an email.