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It's easy with an impact wrench!... Seriously, if you do not have either an Impact Wrench (powered, ~$40), or an Impact Driver (mechanical, whack it with a hammer, ~$10), you need to invest in one! Download the FSM, as well, from the Home Page. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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I have the tools just wanted to check and see if there was anything special that needed to be done.
And the manual won't work properly for me.
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ordered the sprockets from vintagecb750. Dealer wanted 130 just for the rear one. Ill get the chain with next weeks check.
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Order a Clymer off of Amazon.com: link.
A used copy will cost $11 + S/H. Well worth it, IMO. There are sites that will sell you a PDF copy, if you cannot get this one to work for you. Actually, anyone here can e-mail you a copy of it, as well. Send me a PM, and I can e-mail you a copy of it, tonight. Be certain to download, and install, the latest version of Adobe Reader -- if you have an older version, it may not be able to read this PDF. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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New problem.
after work I went home and got my bike to ride to the gym. when taking off it fells like the clutch is not fully releasing. And when I am riding and I punch it, it acts like im reving and then engages around 7000. seems like the clutch is going. Am I right in assuming this?
Any input would help.
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Yep. Sounds like it slipping. Ebay is loaded with clutch kits for the DOHC at good prices. I just changed the clutch out on my SOHC and it was very simple. Yours should be almost identical.
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why would it all the suddenly do it. what would cause it.
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On mine I was pretty rough on it,which I'm sure didnt help. But I think the age just gets to them. When my clutch came apart it was like the friction material ( cork ) was just peeling off. I guess the oil just breaks down whatever adhesive holds the cork on. What cork was still on my disc when I pulled it out scraped off very easily with my finger nail.
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This post was updated on .
maybe that what it is. I'm sure this bike was sitting for some time.
Really think that this would happen over night. It sat for 2 days because of rain and than it acted like this. It did not do this before what so ever.
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I'm not sure. The pic only shows 4 cork plates,my SOHC has 7 cork plates(some SOHC's have 6). I do know the DOHC bikes use 6 clutch springs vs. the SOHC's 4 clutch springs. Maybe they use the extra springs in place of the extra discs? I do know I put EBC springs in my bike and really like them . Real nice lever pull.
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In the description it shows that pic doesn't show actual product. I'll call tomorrow at the Honda shop and see how much they want first since they can have it by Friday. which is my next day off.
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Since they are replacing the clutch plates, make sure to ask them to check the clutch springs. If they are weak, you do not want to go back in, even next year, to replace them, as well.
When I had my clutch re-done, with new springs, I had to go easy when riding, as the new springs were really quite strong, and it taxed my hand to pull the clutch in, and hold it, at stoplights... Just sayin'. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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Im replacing the clutch myself. Im talking about the parts price.
My lever is that way now. Its a pain to have to hold. I adjusted the lever yesterday to get the slack out and now I have to almost full let go of it to release the clutch.
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Just a suggestion, I have an 81 F and my clutch was slipping at higher rpms, mainly when trying to pass someone (scary!) I thought my clutch was starting to go out and started researching clutch slippage and came across a lot of oil topics. I was running regular pennzoil oil and absolutely hated it! Not only was my clutch slipping but it had a nice tick coming from the case only after changing the oil. Per Sarge, I ran seafoam through the motor and through all the gears and changed over to Rotella T6. Man what a difference!!!The annoying tick went away and my bike shifts so much better and I havent had a slip since changing the oil. I will never go back, Rotella T6 is now my miracle oil! Thanks Sarge!
I never considered the oil to be the cause of my clutch slipping, but after researching and having a "well duh" moment, I remembered these bikes have a wet clutch, which means the engine oil also lubricates the clutch. So the type of oil will definitely affect your transmissions performance. Again not sure if this will solve your problem, your clutch may actually be gone but its definitely a cheap alternative just to see if it fixes it before you break open your case. Either way, I highly recommend the Rotella swap! Good luck bud!
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Slowanugly007, thanks for sharing your experience. I did some research on the clutch slippage issue, due to Friction Modifiers Additive (FMA) in car oils, years ago: I only found documented evidence of the FMA causing clutch slippage in one model of motorcycle, period -- forget which model, but it was a mid-80's bike. I never put much stock into the FMA issue after that. I ran regular automotive oil in my Honda for a few years, before SeaFoam'ing it, and switching to Rotella T6. Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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I went ahead and just ordered the new clutch. I just recently switched to t6. its seems to be getting worse so im guessing the friction is gone. Thanks
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I went ahead and just ordered the new clutch. I just recently switched to t6. its seems to be getting worse so im guessing the friction is gone. Thanks
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I went ahead and just ordered the new clutch. I just recently switched to t6. its seems to be getting worse so im guessing the friction is gone. Thanks
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Administrator
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What did you say?
What did you say?
What did you say? Sounds about right then since you have been using good oil. It really shouldnt be a bad job at all. Just take pics and make sure you dont leave any parts out....like I did
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