'81 CB750C "Rock-It"

[barelycompetent]

Glad to see that latch found a good home!  Bikes looking good, tanks looking good with its new latch, looking forward to seeing the whole bike when its done!  By the way did you need the key or did yours work with it?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks guys
And yeah barely..my keys worked!

[barelycompetent]

Better safe then sorry!  I switched out my ignition switch and it came with different style keys so that could be why they didnt work on the latch, either way I didnt need it so Im glad it found a good home!

[Piute]

[Hoosier Daddy]

Beginings of the rear-sets. Picked up these chrome with black rubber inserts pegs on sale for $25 at the local Dealership.





Will probably snag the shift and brake lever bits from Fast from the Past if I can determine which ones will work.
www.fastfromthepast.com

[Johnnylevi]

looks promising! Man, that red frame gets me every time

[shinyribs]

Those are nice looking pegs. They oughta make for a snazzy looking setup!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Did a lot of searching and found a drawing I could message , changed a few dimensions after measuring the original levers center to center, and changed the speed holes to slots. What say you?
 
Feel free to print out and do what you will, should be close to 6 inches center to center of the pivot and the post as shown if the scaling held. I'm off to look for bushings to determine the pivot hole size. Then I can start cutting my aluminum plate.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Picked up two bronze bushings with shoulders and washers with an ID to fit the 3/8" peg bolts and their OD was just under 1/2" at .490" . After searching my bins for a suitable bit, another trip for a 1/2" bit necked down to fit my 3/8 chuck.
  Printed and cut out the pattern onto some cardstock and transfer that onto my 3/8" aluminum plate.
Then came the tedious sawing of the aluminum with my jig-saw. Slow and stready,  several pie cuts and radius holes to get the curves close... I need to buy a band saw.



...and the rough cut pieces.



Then I transfered the holes with my auto-punch. Notice I made both a right and left pattern that allowed me to draw the patern and transfer to holes on both pieces easily so I'd be sure to be cutting / drilling from the back side, hate to marr the good sides nice finish.



Then onto the drill press. I used a  13/64" drill bit, both for the pilot holes of the pivot and to have the right size to tap the toe peg holes to 1/4-20. then drilled the pivot holes out to the 1/2". Changed to a drum sander to clean the rough edges, best way for me with my limited equipment to get in the radius.



Next a little clean up with a rolled up piece of scotchbrite and a dab of oil in the pivots, I fit the bushings.



Here's and edge shot to show hole the drum sander cleans up the rough cut edge. Key is to keep it moving, don't stop in one spot to long...



Coming up I plan to get 1/4-20 shoulder bolts and hose for the toe pegs. Then the clevis and heim joints along with rod to thread for the linkage, once those are in hand I will drill the remaining holes. Hate to guess on the size of that hole size now and risk messing up.
So more to come.

[shinyribs]

Looking good dude! Some good ideas you got there

[cdaiscool]

Good lookin' rears, I'm going to have to go through this build more!

[Hoosier Daddy]

While I am sourcing out the linkage for the rearsets I didn't want to loose momentum. So I turned to the seat. First here's a little recap, back when the frame was in primer, I roughed up a styrofoam buck with white glue.



Then sanded to the final shape



Determined how I was going to mount it along the way. Then used standard 2 part epoxy thinned with rubbing alcohol until it was able to be painted on with a brush to seal the foam. This helps keep it from melting when the fiberglass resin is applied. (old R/C boating trick)  Then a trial fit of the finished buck.



Now to current progress, I used a garbage bag over the rear frame to protect it and covered the buck with aluminum foil. Another step to protect the styro from the styrene resin and it allows it to "pop" off the buck when done. (Wish I had grabbed some spray cans of mold release from my old employer before they closed.)



Cut and fit the first layer of woven cloth



Then alternated to random strand mat for strength. We used to call this stuff "Angel Hair" but for the life of me I don't know why... it is truely Satins Daughter's Hair, a bitch to work with but patience and dabbing the resin on instead of brushing, working from the center out, keeps the strands in place and the mess to a minimum.
Then another coat of woven... much nicer finish and let it cure.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Now this morning I removed the buck from the bike and traced around the edge with a heavy black marker on the inside.



This will show through the next layers and give me a guide on where to trim once all finished to match the lines original design.
Carefully poped out the styrofoam buck and peeled off the remaining aluminum foil. Next will come the holes for the mounts, get them in place, then a little trimming and and scuffing for a few more layers on the inside, alternating with the woven and mat. Usually 5-6 layers gives a good strength, maybe a little extra in the high stress places.

[Butcherblock]

Thanks for logging this Hoosier, I have never fiber glasses before, but I also want to make a seat.! Looking great so far!!

[shinyribs]

Yep,that does look nice Hoosier. Good work so far bud.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks guys, honestly this is one of my favorite parts of a build. This is my fourth seat I have made and I find it much easier to use the single buck method rather than going through the process of making  the cavity and core of a true mold.... But then, I cover the entire thing with vinyl when done so not going for a perfect exterior finish. You'll see that later on.
 If you wanted it good enough to paint, and only cover the seat pad, you would use the inside of the piece I just made as the mold. First put in the gelcoat and then the 'glass. It would have to be flawless to cast a good piece with no undercuts that would keep you from pulling out the final part.
  Best advise I can give you Butcherblock is to have your material cut ahead of time and a little large so it over extends the part, you can always trim it later. Also buy an extra tube of hardener, they never seem to give you enough for an entire can of resin, even if you mix it exactly as they say.  Do NOT use a styrofoam cup to mix your resin, it'll eat right through... some platics too like a Solo-cup .. I use a paint mixing cup, solvent resistant and has gaduations on the sides to easily see your amount of resin you are pouring.  Once you add the hardener, stir it well but work quick. Once you feel the cup starting to get warm, your DONE. It is starting to set up and will become a globby mess if you keep working it. If you still have more to do, mix another batch later.
 Clean-up can be done with  higher quality 97% rubbing alcohol, but acetone is better. Go to the womens "Beauty" section at your local box store (Wal-Mart) and get the generic stuff for womens fingernails, usually a lot cheaper than the stuff sold in the "Paint" section.

[Hoosier Daddy]

More work done on the seat... I knew how I was going to mount it before I started, always a good idea to have a plan.
 If you can see in the foam buck, I had a notch carved for the front mount, I cut a slit into the fiberglass in that location to use the factory mount in the frame.



Then I bent a piece of steel into a "Z" shape and after several test fits, passed it through the slit and glassed it into place on top with two strips of fiberglass, the second larger than the first. Here is a view from the bottom.




For the rear mount I am going to use the factory rear fender mounting holes that are in the frames crossbrace. Since the entire top of the seat will be covered, it will have to bolt in from the bottom. I am going to use these T-nut threaded plates.




... so for that, I used the resin to glue a strip of wood in place for them to "bite" into and gave it all a final top layer of woven cloth.



Once I get their holes drilled, I can install the T-nuts and give it all a final test fit then comes the foam pad and finally cover it. I have some marine grade vinyl that I have left from a previous seat, but also came across some black leather.... Hmmmmmm.

[shinyribs]

Nicely done,sir You'll be riding before long!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Thanks! It sure is starting to look like a motorcycle a little more all the time. Yesterday I got the carbs out and disassembled them. Need to pick up my Ranndaks kit.
 Saturday I received my clamps for where the e-bayed mufflers join the stock head pipes. I had welded in some adapters to join the two and Picked up some high heat paint and painted the head pipes. Redrilled the mounting holes in the hangers and got it all together.

[shultz_1978]

Looking good That red really pops out at you.