Anything below roughly 3,000 RPM, and the bike will run off of the battery, not the alternator -- the alternator is not putting out enough juice to charge the battery below 3,000 RPM... Letting it idle for any length of time, will drain the battery.
To check the charging system, connect a Digital Volt Meter across the battery terminals, and rev the engine to 3,000 RPM: you should read at least 13+ Volts across the battery,
if the charging system is working.
If you have drained the battery to the point where it won't start your engine (deep discharge), take it to an auto parts store to have it load tested, for free. Deep discharging will kill a battery, rather quickly. If you can afford one, an AGM is the best, longest lasting type: extremely little discharge over long storage periods (electrical accessories, like clocks, will still drain it, however); maintenance free; can be used in any position, won't leak; virtually immune to lower temperatures; last 2+ times as long as flooded cells, but will cost up to 2x as much, also.
When you buy a new battery (any type: flooded, Gel Cell, AGM), they must be properly charged before usage! Failure to do so, will shorten the life of the battery -- might as well light your wallet on fire... Follow the manufacturer's directions for their battery, carefully; do not exceed the maximum charge rate (Amperes: if it says 2 Amps, do NOT connect it to a 5-10 Amp charger!). Pay attention to the rest period recommended, as well: typically, flooded batteries require a period of time to 'cook' after adding acid, then they need to be charged slowly, until full. It varies by maker, and model. The
Battery Tender Jr. is a tried, and true friend to motocyclists, and their bike's batteries: it can double the life of any battery, if it is connected after each ride, to top off, and maintain the battery, for optimal performance, year-round... Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII